I have a 6.75hp Craftsman lawnmower with a Techumsa engine and my son has a
4.5hp Craftsman lawnmower with a Briggs and Stratton engine. I just cut my
son's very tall, thick lawn (3 weeks of rainy weather) with his 4.5hp mower
and it never bogged down to the point of stalling and rarely slowed down
much, even taking full width cuts. OTOH, my 6.75hp mower bogs down on thin,
long lawn (2 weeks little rain) to the point of totally dying if I take any
more than a 1/4 width cut. What gives?
Which is why people who are in the know avoid Tecumseh engines like
That and the fact that after a couple of years they usually refuse to
run at all & even a good mechanic is hard pressed to change that.
That's complete and udder ( :) ) bull-hockey.
I've a nearly 40-yr old JD 112 w/ the 8-hp Tecumseh that still runs just
fine, thank you very much. It does have a new carb as after all those
years the throttle valve arm wore so that it had enough air leakage to
cause surging and make keeping mixture was difficult.
The 8-hp is plenty for the 38" 3-blade deck.
I recently discovered a better way to really shorten the grass without loading
up the mower. I try to mow shorter during the non-summer months (Supposedly
reduces fungus problems). Mowing with the mower set as low as I want results in
it frequently loading down. I tried mowing with the front wheels set to the
lowest position, and the rear wheels on the highest setting. This seems to
enable the Snapper mower to cut cleanly, and allows more airflow which carries
the grass out to the bag better. I didn't have any stalling problem using it
I'd guess needs sharpening for starters and mixture is likely off so
isn't running well. Governor may be stuck so isn't opening under load
properly is another possibility.
It ain't a failure of Tecumseh engines; there's something not right.
Water in the gas. Throttle problems. Burnt valve. Weak spark
plug. Low octane gasoline. Clogged metering jet in the carb.
Sticky carb float. Oversize air gap to flywheel from coil.
Partial shear of flywheel shear pin. Leaky spark wire. Old,
or poor quality motor oil. Grass caked under the deck. Dull
blade. Want some more possiblities?
some years ago for safety reasons the feds limited the blades tip
speed, cutting it dramatically. this cut effective power.
thats why horse power climbed while perform,ance decreased a lot.
its the age of the mower
As you can see, there are many possible reasons.
Type of grass is another, thickness of the grass, moisture content,
height, Self-propelled vs non-self propelled, how the HP is rated. I
am not sure, but some MAY measure with blade on, other may measure
with blade off. Short stroke HP vs a motor with a longer stroke,
weight of flywheel and I am sure there are other factors.
Sharpness of Blade difference?...Size of blade difference? Design of blade
difference? Depth of cut setting? Design of mower deck difference? I'd check
those out first before I started... I had a very expensive Huskvarna (HAD)
and it had a larger Briggs & Statton motor than my father in-laws Sears
Briggs & Stratton...I couldn't even think of keeping up with the father in
laws machine... Both garden tractors with the same cutting width...I really
think design has a lot to do with it...That Sears tractor could not only out
cut, but could bag leaves in the spring clean up way better than that damned
Huskvarna....again the Huskvarna had a larger Briggs engine by I think 3-5
HP more...so yup...my take is design and blades...........Jim
All kinds of possibilities, none of which are the brand in a case like
this. YOu have things like the following that can affect how well they
-- Engine tuned? Just like a car they need an occasional tune-up based
on how they're used.
-- Environment? Used in dusty/not dusty places? Ever replaced the air
-- Using old or fresh gas?
-- Water in the fuel?
-- Fuel filter changed?
-- Tire pressures, if applicable, set right?
-- Compared at same time or different times? Weather, humidity, etc
etc etc all can make a difference.
-- Engine clean? Fins clean? Debris cleaned out? Air flow OK?
-- Proper oil?
-- Past Preventive Maintenance record?
-- Blades sharp?
-- Blades aligned properly?
-- Belts all good?
-- All pulleys tight & rolling free?
-- Idler arms set properly?
-- Hours logged on the engines? (Here, brand CAN make a difference!)
-- Good overall design of the mechanics?
AS you can see there are a LOT of reasons for a difference as you
mention. I noticed somoene said 8 HP was fine for a 3-blade deck, which
is nonsense. 8 HP is seriously under-powered and a very hard
combination to find, actually. A few of the other ego-boast guesses I
saw were nearly as silly too. Without having them sitting side by side
in my garage to test/adjust/observe and maybe repair, a person can't
really give you a definitive answer to this one.
If I were forced to guess, I'd say an engine tune-up, blade
sharpening and deck adjustments are the place to start.
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