is it better to remove the baseboard and reinstall it after flooring is done? or leave the baseboard there and install quater rounds after flooring is done?
also what kind of transition moulding would you use at a glass sliding door panel?
I removed the baseboard and I think it does a better job and has better appearance as the baseboard would look squished otherwise. Mark the bb so it can easily go back in the same place after you paint or varnish it.
I used a pre-finished molding that the company could provide. I used
thanks, edwin
We had a problem with curling at the seams, maybe from moisture (???), also where the fridge sits, underneath the laminate is curling (visibly but if you measured it it's probably half a millimeter) due to the heat of the compressor we assume.
Our fridge has the usual wheels, does not leave a mark.
Personally I think the jury is still out on laminate flooring. Our experience has not been good but some people I know think it's da bomb.
I will be installing Dupont Laminate Flooring:
What are the pitfalls of installing this? What should I be aware of? I will be installing this in the kitchen. Can I put heavy furniture on laminate wood flooring? Can I put regrigerator on it? How about my IKEA kitchen base-cabinets that stand on plastic legs? Will that allow the floor to "float" and expand and contract? Or am I looking at gaps in joints 1 year away?
Thanks
I hate cleaning it, I use a micro fiber swifter mop, and when you mist the floor with prescribed cleaner, its a bitch to move the mop back and forth. I'de rather be on hands and knees.
No problem where the refrig sits, or moving the refrig to clean behind it. I installed 9 volt water leak de-tectors near the dishwasher and under the kitchen sink, so to catch a leak before damage to the floor is done.
Wish I would of installed sheet vinyl as I had before, or had a real hardwood floor installed.
I use a regular sponge mop or the Clorox equivalent to your swiffer and it works OK.
I may give that a try Ed, this micro fiber swifer pad is like trying to ice skate on concrete, it really drags.
Tom
Can be either. If you are buying a reputable brand of laminate, they make a bull nose just for the stairs. If you are buying some cheap-o brand at the dollar store, they probably don't have such a thing.
If you have stairs between two walls, it is easy to just put the laminate between them, but an open stair takes a bit more work mitering the bull nose to fit.
In any case, be sure you have a good carbide blade on the saw and a set of knee pads for doing the floor. You can buy a cheap carbide and toss it when done, or a good carbide and have it sharpened as good or better than new when done.
Not sure if you'd want to do the stairs. Laminate flooring is pretty slippery stuff.
Sealing any cracks caused by settlement?
Proper material for the flooring you pick? Follow the instructions. If this is glue down; all things are not equal.
I can appreciate wood on stairs. I found one house in our area done by DIY and it really sounded hollow and "clacky" when we walked on it.
-- Oren
"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:pdSWh.11939$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net:
OP: Don't even bother trying to get away with non-carbide. It will be blue smoking on 10 cuts. Laminate surface on one I used contained aluminum oxide. Same stuff used in sandpaper for metal. Tears up non- carbide blades.
No, good laminate is NOT slippery and perfectly safe. I've had it on my steps for 10 years now and never a problem. Safer than the carpeting it replaced. That did cause two falls, thankful no injury. That is why it is gone.
Walking down in a pair of socks; will bust your butt.
-- Oren
"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"
I have laminate on my family room floor (actual basement) for the past ten years. a sub floor is recommended, I did not require one as I had a hardwood floor of squares already installed. The "KEY" to a good job is when you start from your perfered side, you make sure your first linear course is perfectly square. You can achieve this by starting in a known square or squareable corner, lay the first course in a test mode, leave at least 5/16 gap to wall on all sides. you may also run a test course to the opposite wall to check if it will be necessary to avoid a narrow cut course. There is a special blade available for laminate flooring. Be sure to do all your cutting in a location away from the room or the rest of the house as the dust is pervaisive. It is best to use the interlocking type as gluing can hamper any necessary replacements in the future. Be sure to keep at least 4 to 6 full boards as possible repair units, because accidents do happen.
Good luck and happy laying
Jim
I do that many times a day, every day. I never wear shoes in the house and I'm up and down the stairs at least a half dozen times a day. If you do the math, that is about 21,000 trips, 10,500 up, 10,500 down. I've yet to slip. My wife does the same, but only takes the stairs once or twice a day, but she has yet to trip. Oh, at least twice a day I'm carrying a tray and not holding the rail. Then twice a day up with the tray.
If you are slipping, you need a better laminate or better cleaner or something. I have Wilson Art.
I can appreciate any stair material. I've slipped in socks on carpet stairs, also. I will (try) to never; ever, live in a house with stairs again.
Sold the last one... We live in a single story now and have no stairs and steps (grin).
Up and down the steps is what made me get rid of them \\:-}
-- Oren
"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."
Here's hoping it doesn't turn into 11,000 trips up, 10,999.5 trips down and one bouncer :-)
Bounce down a few steps; feet in the air and your teeth will chatter ;-))
Some reason I got up rubbing my rear end....
I don't do math....
-- Oren
"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."
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