Kitchen Corner Cabinet solution

Gotchya. But it'll also resort to losing counter space, wouldn't it?

Reply to
SBH
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I wounder if one of these would work:

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- watch the wraparound in the url!

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Perhaps mount the first drawer to this...

Harvey

Reply to
eclipsme

Have you considered a full door-width cabinet in the corner, set at a 45 degree angle? You'd use very little additional floor space, and what you used would not be that usable anyway, in the corner of butting cabinets. Yes, it'd be deeper than a regular cabinet, but then that's where you'd keep the old Waring blender, bottles you saved for some reason and other things you "store" "somewhere." The cabinet top itself would be perfect for an appliance garage, since there would be added depth for more storage of "stuff." The same would be true for the upper cabinets as well: perhaps a glass door for them to accent the storage?

Where it gets to be fun is if you build them yourself or have them custom made. By flaring the sides of the corner cabinet out half way to meet a similar flare of the abutting side cabinet, the unreachable corners are less difficult to reach or manage. In fact, I'd consider those full extension shelf glides mentioned elsewhere for the base cabinet. You could store "stuff" on the sides, while the middle, elevated, shelfs would roll out for even better access- particularly to the back, or "V" area.

Reply to
Nonny

re "The only limitation is you basically are limited to light weight items"

That's certainly not the "only" limitation.

1 - This might solve the issue with the upper shelf of the blind cabinet, but it won't help for the lower shelf. Very few people will be able to remove something from the bottom of a 30" deep bin.

2 - You lose that area of counter for any type of "permanent" storage. For example, in my case, that corner is the best place for our microwave and baking-supplies canisters.

3 - Ignoring my situation above, and assuming a different counter configuration that leaves that counter open for normal kitchen use, you're going to have seams and handle openings associated with the cover. That sounds like a cleaning nightmare to me.

So it seems to me that one would either need to move items every time they wanted something from the "top shelf" only or they would have to deal with the seam and handle gaps if they use that area of the counter or that area of the counter would be wasted if unused.

Unless I'm missing something (since I'm basing this on how my kitchen is laid out) there doesn't seem to enough of an advantage to outweigh the disadvantages.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

re "how would you get the first shelf to pivot out of the way"

I don't believe you do. I think that the set-up just allows you to slide the back shelf over to the opening so that you can reach items easier.

The problem I see is that the additional access is limited to the width of the door.

I just checked my blind corner to see how well that solution would work, and I'm not sure it would be worth the trouble.

My stick-built cabinet is 41" wide, with 27" of "blind area" and a 14" opening.

For me to use that solution, the usable width of the slide out shelf would have to be less than 12" wide to allow for the side wall slide and the frame of the shelf itself.

The lose of that shelf space is minor compared to the fact that all I would gain is about that same 12" of access to back shelf. I'd still have 15" of blind area to deal width.

Sure, 15" is better than 27", but is it worth the time and money? I'm not sure.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

DerbyDad03 wrote: (snip)

but is it worth the time and money? I'm

I have loosely been following this thread, and tend to agree- it is much ado about nothing. A properly done blind cabinet is great for those once or twice a year items, and pulling the little stuff in front out of the way to get to them is really no big deal. I find lazy susan corner cabinets annoying, especially if they don't have the curved wall around them. Stuff falls off and jams. Not a fan of dead spaces in kitchen cabinets- that is where small creatures like to set up housekeeping. If I was a woodworker by hobby rather than only when needed, I might be tempted to come up with a creative solution, like making a hidey-hole back in the dead corner for the safe or something. (false wall in the back of the cabinet, held on by magnets or velcro.) What burglar is going to empty kitchen cabinet looking for a stash spot?

Only kitchen I ever had that really irritated me, was a cheap apartment where the kitchen was in the normal 'dining nook' area, because where the kitchen normally went, was the boiler room for the building. (hey, I was broke, and it was the cheapest they had vacant.) They didn't bother to get a corner cabinet for this one-off application, they just installed 2 normal base cabinets, and left the corner empty under the counter. I left it full of empty jars when I left, stuffed through the hole in the kick plate. Let somebody figure THAT out when they replace those crappy chipboard cabinets in there.

-- aem sends...

Reply to
aemeijers

======================== Not if you recess the cover flush with the counter top.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I have been dealing with a kitchen design that bega for three corner cabinets or a better solution.

I generally favor the diagonal front base cabinets as I fabricate my own counters and can turn a corner with a single 4x8 05 5x10 sheet of goods - avoiding the corner seam.

But they have some new post-formed counters at HD and Lowes of late that got me thinking of replacing the "corner" base and wall cabinets with a tall pantry another poster mentioned in this thread. But, where that one suggested a slinding door, I figured the diagonal front would do nicely enough - though both of the "solutions" traded in 4 SF of counter real estate.for the accessible storage.

The diagonal front provides an opening about 18" wide. I suspect that the interior shelving could be designed with a "pull out" center section on fully extensible sliders.

Illuminating the interior might be neatly accomplished with a fixture in the inside front above the door opening operatd by a switch activated by the opening of the door.

I'm still debating the idea as, one on each end of a 10' wide kitchen space is "a bit much" and may make the space feel altogether too small and confined.

But, being able to use simple seamless sections of ready-made post- formed mica counters does have its attractions.

Reply to
Hoosierpopi

Please see my related response a few posts up.

How do you remove a flush cover? By a recessed handle, I assume...after you move the stuff off of the counter.

In my case, that would be the microwave.

BTW...wouldn't that recessed handle (and seam) collect all sorts of kitchen counter related "dirt" and be tough to clean?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

-------------------------------- How do you remove a flush cover? By a recessed handle, I assume...after you move the stuff off of the counter.

In my case, that would be the microwave.

Make sure you lash it down before you hoist the mainsail.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

This is a.h.r not a.b.r.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

way?

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ouch!

Reply to
eclipsme

Ouch for that section, yes, but I love the old fashion stick-builts with no walls between the cabinets.

I've got a few 3 & 4 doored sections that are over 5' wide - each section is one big cabinet inside.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

way?

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Yes, I would have to agree with you there. In my current project, I had the option to make a 7' cab, but have decided to do all drawers in the lowers this time. Therefore I have use of the dividers for hanging the slides on. It will still be a 7' cab, but with 2 dividers.

The uppers are another matter. I got concerned of the possible weight/strength issues, so decided to duplicate the dividers up above. Still, it would be nice to have 1 7' space with 3 sets of doors rather than 3 divided spaces. But how do you hang a half overhang door in a frameless cabinet without dividers??? choices, choices, choices...

Harvey

Reply to
eclipsme

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