My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding temp.
I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.
Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown taking out one leg of the 240V?
The first thing that comes to mind is for you to call an electrician when
you have to ask a question like that.
You are in the US and not some where else ?
For things to try, go to the circuit breaker if you have that or the fuse
panel for the house. Cut the breaker off and back on to see if one leg
somehow tripped with out tripping the other (which is very unusual). If
there are fuses, most like one is blown. Pull the fuse block out and check
each fuse with the ohm meter.
If the fuses are good, then is the stove plugged in ? If so, how many wires
are there, 3 or 4 ? Two of the wires will have 240 volts between them. If
3 wires there should be 120 volts between two of the wires and the other
(ground/neutral) wire. If 4 wires, then there will be 0 volts between the
ground and neutral wires, and 120 volts between either of those wires and
one of the other wires.
The red and what you are calling brown (which is usually black) are the two
hot wires and anything else should be green for ground and white for neutral
depending on the number of wires.
On Mon, 7 Sep 2015 08:54:58 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
Bad connection, blown fuse, or tripped un-linked breaker (against
code, unsafe, and unlikely) If you have a fused panel instead of a
breaker panel you could have a blown fuse in the panel. Otherwise,
Check for fuse in the actual range/oven. Check the manual for
location. If no bad fuses, call electrician to check connections in
New info: When I check each terminal to ground, the brown/ground has 115V
but the red/ground has zero.
This would indicate that you heating element has grounded, checking little
more will show that that wire to
terminal on the heater is open or fuse blown some ovens may have fuse link
that opens with heat similar to your
heir dryer. Unless you know electronics/electric get professional to check
What does that tell us?
On Mon, 7 Sep 2015 08:35:28 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org
Where are you in the world where you would run a JennAire oven on DC??
Use your AC meter to measure.
As far as one leg fuse going out, that will give you zero volts, not
110, because you are measuring leg to leg. You would only get 110 leg
to neutral on one side if the other side was open.
I have problem with you readings how do you get "DC" do you have solar
If you running at 115 VAC and your oven have dual element and you took
at bottom element then your top element is open or visa versa
wrote in message
My Jennair oven is taking forever to heat up and has difficulty holding
I just put the voltmeter across the terminals and find that it is only
pulling about 115Vdc, which would explain the problem.
Any idea why it would be doing this? Is there a fuse that could've blown
taking out one leg of the 240V?
Ovens (or other LOADS) don't "put out" 115V. They *see* whatever
voltage is impressed from the *source*.
On 9/7/2015 8:35 AM, email@example.com wrote:
In the US (as you don't say where you are located), residential power
is delivered over a "center tapped, 220V supply". In essence, this
*looks* like two 110VAC circuits. But, if you examined the waveforms,
you'd see that they are 180 degrees out of phase.
220V appliances are powered from the two "hots"; the "neutral" (which is
the "center tap") carries no current. (Neutral is tied to EARTH,
eventually. But, a fourth "ground" conductor often brings that EARTH
directly to the appliance -- much the same as the *third* wire on a 110V
110V appliances are powered from *one* of the "hots" and the neutral.
Ideally, the loads in your house are arranged so half of the 110V
loads are on one leg (hot#1) and the other half on the other leg
Some appliances use 110V *and* 220V. E.g., a stove/oven/electric dryer
usually uses a lot of power so being able to operate from 220V means
each *wire* (conductor) need only supply half of the total current
(amperage; power = amps * volts). But, those appliances often have
portions that don't *need* the higher voltage: e.g., the *clock*
in your stove, the control electronics in your dryer, etc. In
this case, that *portion* of the device that only needs 110V can
use one of the hots (leg1 or leg2 -- either one!) for that need
while using *both* hots for the other, higher power requirements.
Exactly. If you have fuses, then one could have blown without the
other. If you have circuit breakers, one "half" could have blown
without taking out the other "half". Circuit breakers for 220V
circuits should be ganged together -- mechanically tied -- so that
one leg tripping FORCES the other leg to trip. But, sometimes
this doesn't happen properly. Other times, someone has *cut* the
mechanical link to ALLOW one half to be switched on/off without
regard for the "other half".
Remember, any time a breaker/fuse trips, there WAS A REASON. Don't
fall for the temptation of just flipping it back on repeatedly until
it *appears* to stay on. Make sure you understand WHY it has tripped
and remove any potential safety hazzard. E.g., one "leg" may have
partially shorted to the metal case -- "ground" -- which would cause
it to blow/trip; turning the power back on hasn't fixed the problem
even if it *may* appears to have gone away (e.g., the portion of the
conductor that was nearest to the metal case may have been melted away
in that first "event"; but the problem is still waiting to reappear.)
If you're uncomfortable with "things electric", DO hire someone who
is equipped/licensed to do so!
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 7 Sep 2015 08:35:28 -0700 (PDT),
You need to make a drawing, on paper, with all the wires you've found
included, and all the voltages you've found between two locations
marked, maybe even in different colors if you need that to keep them
You might also want to unpplug or disconnect the oven from the wall,
from the power, and measure some resistances, with the switch on, of
course (although I don't know much about your switches and some problems
might be in a switch, for all I know.) Definitely use a different
color for ohms from what you use for AC volts.
When it's all in front of you, you should either realize you need more
measurements or you have enough to hone in on the problem.
Disconnect the range and check the power at the plug. That will tell
you if you have a problem in the power supply/house wiring. If that's
OK, then the problem, by default, is in the stove itself. L1 to L2
should be 240. L1 to ground and L2 to ground should be 120 N to ground
(if a 4 wire plug) should be zero.
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