Hi - I have recently purchased a EHS KTS-60 cooler unit. I filled it
with water and turned it on, and it blows out air, but it's not that
cold. When I press the "cool" button to activate the water-cooling
system it doesn't seem to make a difference. Also, the compartment at
the top of the unit for ice cubes isn't cold at all. What is this
section designed for?
Is there something I should be doing to actiavte water cooling, other
than press the 'cool' button?
Didn't it come with instructions? It is an evaporative cooler, not an air
conditioner, so the temperature of the air output depends on operating in a low
humidity environment. The ice compartment is to put ice into (not to make ice),
to make the air colder.
I have seen lots of people buy these and then throw them away. Evap coolers
ONLY work well with low humidity, a dew point of less than 40 F. Anything
higher ,,,, nuts.
Second you must exhaust the air 100%. Example if you put the cooler in a
room and turn it on then it will humidify the air and stop working. Sure it
blows and adds more humidity but the cooling effect is gone. Best way is to
have the cooler out side and blowing inside, and exhaust 100% of the air to
the outside. I used to vent mine into the attic.
The ice on the top is there for no good reason I know of.
Open one of the pads and look at the operation of the unit when the blower
is running there should be a pan in the bottom with water in it. This pan
should have a pump that raises the water to the top of the pads. Making them
moist. If the pump is not running then you need to find out why. The
switch control might be on vent, i.e. no water.
Sorry to be such a downer.
Umm...first of all, thats not an AC unit...thats a portable evaporative
cooler...basically, a big humidifier that MIGHT work in a low humidity area,
IF and only IF its blowing directly on you.
Portable evap coolers are one big waste of time and money.
good god man. RTFM. You don't have an air conditioner for one. It's
an evaporative air cooler. And why would a *receptacle* for ice be
cold? You're not thinking it *makes* ice cubes? That's where you
*put* ice cubes to make the water colder.
Basically, it just blows air over a crude radiator that has water
(cold if you add ice cubes) over it, which cools the air down and
blows it out into the room. It is *not* an air conditioner however
and doesn't make ice cubes for your Margarita.
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A person who sits in the moving airstream would feel even cooler because of
the higher air velocity, but the cooler can also make an entire room or
house more comfortable with cooler air with more humidity.
I disagree, altho a house also needs some outdoor airflow to make them work.
Umm...we are not talking about MasterCools with UpDucts here...we are
talking portable crapola humidifier.
IF hes in a muggy area to start with, all he will do is ad humidity to the
room, and make the room feel overall warmer.
I disagree strongly with you. In the right climate, like southern CA or
Arizona, up to about 58%RH they might work fine, altho I saw many of them
and none ever worked like promised. I have installed over 400 MasterCool,
and Adobe aspen pad units, and unless you get a MC2, with the pre-coolers on
it, and have either enough UpDucts in the home to move the air, or enough
window and doors open to move that air right on out, all you do is create a
warm, sticky place.
How much what? How much of a waste of money? Whatever you pay for a portable
evap, unless its a mister with a hv fan behind it, and outdoors, is too
I've heard "50 F dew point" in AZ, but R&D VP Gregg Steinriede
at Cool Breeze of Key West seems to be doing a good job...
Comfort zones don't care about brand names.
How much outdoor ventilation airflow do we need for comfort in a house
with a thermal conductance G Btu/h-F and indoor humidification rate
P lb/h, given outdoor temp Ta (F) and RH?
Too little ventilation, and the indoor RH becomes 100%--uncomfortable.
Too much, and indoor and outdoor air are the same--no improvement.
We just waste water and fan power.
If it's an average 88.2 F June day in Phoenix with humidity ratio w = 0.0056
and a house has 200 Btu/h-F of conductance and a 0.5 gph Mister Cool (tm)
nozzle indoors, how many cfm of ventilation is needed for comfort?
The 1992 ASHRAE 55 standard summer comfort zone has 4 corners with T (F)
and w at about (74,0.0045) [lower left--cool], (81,0.0045) [lower right],
(78.5,0.0122) [upper right--warm], and (72,0.0138) [upper left.] The upper
edge is w = -0.000246T+0.03152.
With C cfm of ventilation and no internal heat gain, the house above would
have an indoor temp T = 88.2-4000/(200+C) and w = 0.0056+4/(4.5C), which
meets the upper edge of the comfort zone when C = 122 cfm (not much), but
we can touch the upper right corner with less fan power and water usage
with C = 97 cfm and P = 2.9 vs 4 lb/h of water.
Who makes an automatic controller to do that?
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