It should be ok, cans have a bimetal heat cutoff switch if they get to
194 degerees then back on at 184 degrees. And IC cans are made to run cooler on the outside. If your lights flash (due to thermal switch oscillating) then just go down 20 watts or so with the bulb, or drop the bulb position down in the can (see wing nut). If the can against the pipe is not also embedded in insulation it should run cool. I have one in contact with some cat5 phone wiring and never had a problem, and I'm sure cat5 has a lower melting point than PVC.
What is the purpose of the PVC pipes? Is that strictly a venting system or a drain with a short vent added on? Either way that doesn't seem like the proper way to configure a vent unless it's eventually going to be extended out of the building or an auto-vent is going to be used.
Why are there 4 Fernco-style connectors that have been slit? Was the goal to prevent leakage if the glue joint fails? I have my doubts about that working and wonder why it was done at every horizontal junction.
The proximity to the electrical fixture may depend on the purpose of the PVC, but I believe that PVC is considered a "combustible material" when it comes to clearances, etc. The fixture itself should have a combustible material clearance rating, so that may answer your question regardless of what else is going on.
Probably not. Is it IC rated? Is there insulation around it that would trap the heat? Normally these cans run pretty cool as long as you use the "R" type bulb. People get in trouble when they put an "A" bulb in them. (Regular round light bulb)
Seriously? The guy hired a plumber that can't glue PVC? That's a drain. If he doesn't trust his gluing capabilities on a drain, I wonder how he "protects" his work on pipes that are under pressure.
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