Neal:
N > I have an inground spa connected to my pool. The light continually N > trips the GFIC when the light is turned on. I know that the problem is N > specific to the spa light and not the pool light because the GFIC does N > not trip with the spa light leads disconnected at the junction box. N > N > The lamp socket in the light is rusty but the interior appears to be N > dry. The light is a Sta-Rite and is held in the niche by a light wedge N > with a stainless steel screw through the face ring of the light. N > N > I have obtained a Pentair light that will fit in the niche. The N > pentair light has what they refer to as a "pilot screw" throught the N > stainless steel face ring that warnings in the manual say is a part of N > the light grounding system. The "pilot screw" apparently screws into N > the Pentair niche to hold the light in the niche. The Sta-Rite niche N > that is installed in my spa does not have a tab for the "pilot screw" N > to screw in to. The Pac-Fab light fixture has a ground wire in the N > cable just like the Sta-Rite light that is currently installed. The N > niche is properly bonded. N > N > My question is this: Can I safely use the Pentair light in the N > Sta-Rite nice in my spa using the light wedge not screwing the "pilot N > screw" into anything on the niche housing?
I would probably create a hole for the "pilot screw" to screw in to. Sounds like this is a safety ground, so probably not too good an idea to ignore it (especially in a pool -- water and electricity don't play together nicely, y'know!). Depending on what I have to work with, some possibilities: self-tapping sheet metal screw to replace the "pilot screw". Self-tapping screw which clamps a suitable wire to ground, rig something to connect the lamp fixture's ground to system ground.
The possibility still exists the replacement lamp will trip the GFCI. I definately would _not_ bypass the GFCI; replacing the GFCI with a more current model may be a possiblity as the old one could be old and a little too sensitive.
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