Indoor dryer vent "heaters"?

[RicodJour]

Which is ever so more respectable than obfuscating bullshit, of which I bow to you, the master.

possibly

I think you are a boob. You're the self-proclaimed master of physics and yet you haven't figured out that there is no need to add ludicrous amounts of moisture to the living space in the first place, and therefore no need to condense it. A simple air to air heat exchanger rigged from fintube or similarly simple solution would suffice, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend that either as any obstruction in the dryer vent will collect lint and become a fire hazard.

You've got the knowledge but not the wisdom, or apparently the experience, to self-edit. You make astoundingly obvious errors in your computations, horrendous assumptions and promote designs that would make Rube Goldberg swoon. I hope you got the full ride for you education, because brother if you paid for it you got screwed.

BTW, the word is renowned, not renouned.

R

[nicksanspam]

Simple bullshit.

You are right in the sense that condensing the water would save more energy. Do you have any comments about the practicality or physics of that process? I suspect We could use more thermal mass with less surface and some sort of simple external radiator. What do you think about that?

Nick

[m Ransley]

You STILL don`t get it Nick, OP does Not want more humidity. Get IT. So your whole humidity thread is irrelevant to the OP. likewise here.

[nicksanspam]

No way. At the moment, I'm struggling to understand Example 26 in

with the help of Tom Richard's Cornell composting web site which more or less explains the mysterious equation 11.57 for the D12 water vapor diffusion constant in air and its 1.68 exponent based on mixed molecular degrees of freedom. This is important for lower-energy humidification with basement moisture diffusing upstairs. Bouyancy seems unimportant in this case. What do you think, having posed as a qualified technical critic?

The nominal 4" d x 12" tall bottles aren't full, and there's no drum lid. The bottom bottles should be inverted to facilitate air distribution. Given the large heat transfer coefficient for laminar film condensation, we might put more thermal mass and less surface inside the drum, with some sort of simple external radiator to dump heat into air. How much surface do you think we need in the drum, in your expert opinion?

Hex tiling of circles packs about 9% more than than a square grid, and slightly squished circles do better, in my vast drum-bottle- packing experience (one drum :-)

Nick

"In the land of the cross-eyed, the nearsighted man is king." --me

[nicksanspam]

That's off-topic, vs the subject at hand.

Au contraire. Avoiding that while conserving heat is the goal, altho

12 pounds of water (in a typical laundry load, IIRC) is not a ludicrous amount compared to Andersen's estimate that a typical family of 4 evaporates 2 gallons per day.

It's now quite clear that you know little about this subject :-)

Nick

[xrongor]

lets just assume it works without harming anything. no moisture problems, no lint problems, no fire hazzard, it just works.

its not going to save you any significant amount of money. i mean you could bottle your fart gas and find a way to feed it into the furnace, with the side benefit of having less fart smell in your house.

but is it worth it?

randy

[steve]

And in reality, it could cost more to run....

[m Ransley]

Nick your such an idiot, no matter what contraption you make you will add moisture OP does Not want. You are a hopeless fool on a hopeless quest. Your numbers remind me of the builders of the Hubble telescope that refused testing it before throwing that junk into orbit, gee , just taking it outside for a try would have saved a billion, how dumb. And the cure was figured out by a guy taking a shower seeing how the shower arm would swing down. What a joke you are your math always leaves out a few parameters that real life testing provides. Your like a bad computer program, Garbage in = Garbage Out.

[nicksanspam]

It's time to ignore you now, since you have nothing relevant to say. Meanwhile, a clue: English has two words that sound like "your" :-)

Nick

[Nate C.]

I did. It's some kind of foil coated expandible slinky type thing that stretches from about 6 inches to 8 feet when you pull it apart.

Thanks. It seems that most people feel that way. I'll skip that idea.

[xrongor]

well for one, moist air takes more energy to heat. once you pump all that moisture in it is harder to heat later. so your furnace works harder.

randy

[Nate C.]

How so? If I'm running the dryer anyway why would it cost more to send the exhaust heat into my house vs. to the outside?

[nicksanspam]

I think you will find it works less, if you use actual numbers.

Nick

[xrongor]

prove it.

randy

[nicksanspam]

No thanks.

Nick

[xrongor]

i honestly dont think you can...

randy

[nicksanspam]

You might enjoy attempting to prove your claim with Actual Numbers :-)

Nick

[RicodJour]

Like the Actual Numbers (funny, I never knew that phrase was a proper noun) in your volume calculation? How do you get that ~ 66 gallons of volume in a 55 gallon drum (~57 gallons volume actual)? Don't you find it just a wee bit hypocritical to spout off about Actual Numbers when your inaccuracy with Actual Numbers makes them more on the order of ~actual ~numbers?

But those numbers don't really matter, do they? Not really. They're just indicative of your sloppiness in thinking things through. If your numbers were totally screwed up and the thing worked, that'd be fine by me. But...

You'd written this in another post:

ludicrous

A gallon and a half of water in a load of spun dry laundry? I can buy that. It takes about 40 minutes to dry a load. At what rate does the water condense in Rube's Water Barrel Boondoggle? Is it going to take out ~5 ounces of water per minute? Not even close. Your average electric dehumidifier won't do that, and they're far more efficient at removing water than your system. Particularly when there's hot air blowing over the just-condensed water and heating the water bottles further reducing the efficiency of condensation over time.

Basically you've gotten some exercise assembling the thing, occupied that annoying totally useless empty floor space in the basement, kept some plastic water bottles out of a landfill (I'm all for that), and you're still pumping excess moisture and lint into your house.

Next time you have the urge to save some energy, get the 5 cent deposit per bottle (10 cents in MI) and spend it on some weatherstripping for your house.

R

[xrongor]

the numbers are irrelevant and confuse the issue. we are talking about a principle.

you are saying moist air takes less energy to heat than dry air? this goes against what i believe to be true. water takes more energy to heat than a similiar volume of air. add water to the air and its harder to heat.

im not saying im right. im saying id like to see your proof. if im wrong i'll admit it.

randy

[m Ransley]

nick will never get it he still doesn't understand OP does not want humidity added and his idea will add moisture. He has no logic or hands on experience with homes or engineering. His "winter humidification wastes energy posts" and "flood your basement floor" posts prove that. I dough`t he has a house or controls anything about his residence. If he did hands on experiance would have tought him a few things. Nick could keep this stupid thread going forever, he will never get it.