I did my pickup bed for $460 or so. So you may have gotten a better
deal, but close. The $900 quote was for the trailer bed, inside and
over the top. Now, if you can suggest a cheaper place, not too far
from Chicago, I am all ears.
Doing Rhino inside only would cost me about $900.
As far as sandblasting goes, I am quite open minded since I have a
"Real 5 HP" compressor and could, in principle, do sandblasting.
I assume that you are referring to those sandblasting guns that work
in the open, without a tent or some such, around.
I have two small blasters. Just a small hopper, short hose and the gun
attaches to the compressor hose. I've used several types of blast
material. A cheap one is just simple play sand, sold near you. Crushed
pecan shells, etc. My favorite was called Black Witch.
Oh, a face shield.
This approach to blasting will help in the corners and tight spaces.
Years ago I found a product in the auto stores for rust called Extend.
Once to clean metal, spray this stuff on. I think Loctite Co bought
the brand is now on their site.
You have a compressor and you may be able to rent a blaster for the
day. One of mine is Craftsman brand. IIRC, $59.00 back then.
Save the $900.00 (G).
"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."
To help reduce the amount of time you spend physically removing the
rust, just get rid of the loose stuff with the wire wheel then spray
the hell out of it with something like picklex-20 or prep-step. Once
those have dried you are now all set to paint.
I'm guessing that the zinc paint is like the others that I've seen
that use an epoxy base to adhere the zinc, so it should be fairly
tough. You can paint over that stuff too.
I did a home job bedliner in my old truck, just reduced with the
appropriate thinner and sprayed it. Hardest part was prepping the
bed, the spraying too almost no time at all.
I would vote for removing the camo and matching your truck, most auto
body stores will get a pretty good color match made up for you.
Thanks. About a month ago, I wirebrushed and painted with that zinc
paint, an area in the bed about 12x15". I will soon experiment to see
how well it adheres and what happens to it after several rains that we
The "zinc cold galvanizing paint", actually, is a decent color match
for my pickup.
If the bedliner would stick to the paint, I think that I would like to
paint with zinc paint to prevent corrosion, and spray bedliner on top
Should hold up great as long as the surface prep was sufficient. A
good brush down would do it.
Zinc paints pretty good stuff since its epoxy based, and the zinc
should act like hot dip (self healing).
I used the herculiner brand, and it seemed to stick to just about
anything. My only concern would be if the solvent in the mix would
interact with the epoxy poorly. Herculiner uses Xylene (and to spray
you'll be cutting it with more xylene), which is a good solvent for
Should just loosen up the top layer to help it stick.
On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 20:44:01 -0500, Ignoramus322 wrote:
I have found that zinc rich (93%) paint to be quite soft, and it scratches
easily. Seems to work - I have some brackets I made several years ago and
after 5 years outside, there is no rust with 2 coats of zinc paint on them.
I suggest 2 coats of zinc paint, etc prime and 2 coats of enamel, and make
sure you get into all the corners and crevices.
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