How would you demo a small cinderblock wall? It's about 20 cinderblocks
long, not attached to anything except to a section of wall I want - but
there's a crack between the section I want to take out and the section I
want, so that may be fine. It's about 3 cinderblocks high, the bottom
cinderblock was apparently halfway buried in the ground as a footer. It's
mortared. I don't know if it has any metal reinforcement, it probably
doesn't need any.
On Sep 23, 3:37 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org (Lacustral) wrote:
The simple way. Just start picking blocks off of it. A couple bumps
with the end of a 2x4 or 2x6 will usually loosen the mortar. Now if
the cores were poured you might have to do some beating on it with a
sledge hammer. Mortar is more of an 'evener' than a 'glue',
If cinder blocks reasonably clean keep them or give them to someone
who can use them. We always have a few lying around here. Very useful
as extra blocks under if/when working on a car etc. In some areas just
stack em outside near the sidewalk and they'll be gone in the morning!
In windy condtions a cinder block or two hung on ropes can hold down a
tarpaulin over a roof etc. Keep a few anyway.
Real cinder blocks do not make good makeshift jackstands, countless
redneck jokes notwithstanding. It's rare, but possible that they may
crumble under the concentrated weight of a car frame sitting on them,
which would be bad if you happened to be underneath the car at the
time and still inconvenient even if you weren't.
Even as a kid, I knew to only use SOLID concrete blocks under a car. I
preferred to use timbers, if I had them on hand. Even with a solid block,
I'd use a piece of 2x above it to reduce the chance of a metal edge
splitting the block. And I'd never crawl completely under a car held up like
that, just use it to hold up a corner where I had a wheel off or something.
I wouldn't use anything but solid blocks either, all the cautions you
all have said, no matter how many cars have sat on open ones.
I had a pair of steel jackstands, the kind about 15 inches high with
three angle iron legs leading up to an adjustable pipe in the middle,
rated by the manufacturer at far more than the load that was on the
one I was using.
It only had the plymouth version of a Chrysler LeBaron, a K-car, and
lt crumbled. Worse yet, it happened when I was in the house and I had
left an 18 year-old boy with the car. Fortunately he wasn't under the
car. And it didn't bend all the way down, and he was pretty thin, so
he might have made it.
Depends on the circumstances.
Up here, a cinder block that hasn't been "filled" with concrete
partially embedded in moist dirt won't last through more than
one or two freeze-thaw cycles. Of the 9 cinderblocks under the
14'x14' shed we renovated (including raising the whole thing 8"
to put another support beam under it), 4 of the 9 cinder blocks
Secondly, I watched an electrician "drill" a 2" conduit hole
through a new cinder block wall with only a 2lb hand sledge ...
Surprisingly neat hole too.
Cinder blocks aren't very durable. They shatter easy. Not
a good thing to stick under a car, unless you're not terribly
concerned it might fall down.
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
Some folks have mistakenly/wrongly placed or stacked blocks on their
side. They should collapse; almost immediately with a car lowered to
Front yard cars for decades are called "yard ornaments" :)
"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"
Some items to try:
large chisels and points
stout chain and 4wd truck
hand grinder to cut rebar
Depending on how it was put in, removal will require some combination of the
Might be a piece of cake; might be a real MOFO.
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