I have to make some connections inside an electrical box between #10 solid and stranded #12. I tried wirenuts, but it doesn't seem particularly secure. I have only used crimp connectors on standed; can they be used on solid? If not, then what? Thanks.
How to connect #12 stranded to #10 solid
Dec 25, 2004
35 Replies
The only stranded - solid connection that I trust is solder. You'll likely get about 37 other different opinions...
You can 't> I have to make some connections inside an electrical box between #10 solid
Use pliers to twist and tighten the stranded wire onto the solid and then twist your wire connectors onto the splice.
why are are we connecting #10 & #12 conductors?
which wire is upstream? & what is capacity of the circuit breaker?
cheers Bob
I am hardwiring a transfer switch. The cable from the generator is solid
10, and the internal wiring on the switch is standed 12.
These will clamp those wires together tighter than a bull's backside in fly season:
formatting link
But you'll have to wrap the hell out of them with tape to make sure the electrons can't get loose. If it was me, I'd solder 'em.
Jeff
I thought a connection that relied on solder was a code violation?
Tin it with solder? Will it hold together when I twist it?
i agree. it may be overkill, but its cheap, easy, and works every time.
randy
Maybe you are using the wrong size of wire nut.
yup. if you tin it, not encase it....
randy
regular old red scotchlock/ideal wirenut/wingnut twist the stranded line it up with the solid, clip the ends off evenly, then poke em into and then twist the wirenut.
I would use wire nuts that have a brass insert with a set screw that you tighten onto the wires, after trimming the excess hanging out the insert you screw on a plastic cap. When finished it looks just like a twist-on wire nut. A "Marr #2 insulated wire connector" is listed as good for two solid or stranded #10 wires down to five #14s.
I was all set to sold the wires, but these look like they ought to be plenty secure; if anyone locally has them. Thanks
Yes, it is -- but if fastened with a wire nut, the connection relies on the nut, not the solder.
Sure will. Try it and see.
>
I think somepeople's option against this is, if you get a short, or a groundfault, the solder could melt and break the circuit. I think people want faults handled by protective equipment, not the wire itself. Imagine you overload the circuit and your connections come undone. :(
later,
tom @
formatting link
Yeah. I think it's in the wiring methods article. Don't remember the exact section off the top of my head.
later,
tom @
formatting link
This would concern me, maybe I have the wrong sized switch.
Might want to do further research into the setup.
later,
tom @
formatting link
The switch is rated to 21a (240v), so #12 internal is fine, but the line going to it (about 80') had to be #10/3.
Actually I only plan on using it for 14a (120v) so #12, or even #14, would have been fine; but it seemed prudent to set it up for a larger generator since the work is about the same.
i dont believe tinning a wire before nutting it is 'relying on solder', but i could be wrong..
randy
Ditto this, I have used these for decades. Best thing for stranded, or mismatched sizes, or large bunches. Ideal brand used to make them.
Join the Discussion
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Didn't find your answer?
Ask the community — no account required