We have this house -- http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid 3
The basement is unfinished, and the above garage "bonus" room actually
has the door from the house hallway (instead of the garage as shown).
The door is kept closed and that above garage room is not routinely
heated though it does have 2 AC baseboard heater units. The main
level and upstairs are heated.
How long would one expect a house like this to go from 70F to 60F? We
program the temp to be 70 during the day, drop to 69 at 10pm and then
60 at 10:30pm. At 7:30am it begins its climb to 69.
I'm just trying guage whether or not a 70 to 60 drop is good or bad
from 10pm to 7:30am, or 9.5 hours. The overnight lows are typically
around 15 to 25F. I'm just trying to get a handle on whether I
should look for air leaks, insulate better, etc.
It will get down to 60 at night but you should still check your insulation.
Even though the basement is unfinished, you sill have heat loss. You can
frame it and use fiberglass, you can use sheets of foam, or you can use
www.insofast.com panels. Be sure the room over the garage has an insulated
You may want to review your temperature changes to be sure they coincide
with your house use. We keep ours at 68 during the day when people are
active, but 70 at 5 PM when the evening is more sedentary, then down to 62
at 10 PM. Weekdays, I get up at 5:30 so the heat comes on at 5:15.
Dropping from 70 to 60 over 9.5 hours with outside temps 15-25F,
sounds like a house that is pretty well insulated. Mine would
certainly be at 60 before that.
I don;t see the point of the intermediate setting of 69 at 10pm,
followed by 60 only a half hour later. You might as well just go to
60 at 10PM, unless the thermostat is the adaptive type. I keep mine
at a max of 67 when the house is occupied, 60 at night.
A pro energy audit is worth while, I had a blower door test done they
found leaks where I never imagined, A full audit would be best with
Thermal photos and a breakdown of what you will save for what you can
improve. Codes for insulation are old and not optimal www.energystar.gov
can get you looking in the right direction. Going from 70-60 means
your heat is off you do pay a bit less but you just reheat it again, I
dont believe in fully shutting it off and reheating it all again.
I recovered the cost of audit when I upgraded old furnace. Gov. rebate
paid for the audit. Our 'stat is set at 21C when occupied, in the night
and when no one is home(a dog and two cats alone during the day) it is
set at 17C.
How do I locate a good energy audit vendor? I can only imagine there
must be 100s of worthless vendors jumping into the fray. I would
agree.. $250-$350 would probably be well spent. But I'm trying to
figure out if that temp drop is an indicator of any sort -- be it good
or bad. I just have no clue. It seems pretty good to me..
considering we have "too many" windows. They are all double pane
Pella (the type you and snap out the interior panes).
FWIW.. I'm in NE Kansas. A good vendor in the Topeka, Lawrence,
Manhattan, KC area would be w/i 1.5 hours.
This is interesting stuff.. maybe I should learn some on my own.. and
consider it a biz op..
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.