For the last couple of days, the thermostat has been displaying on and off
insted of the usual display of the current temp.
At the same time, it has NOT been heating up the house properly
I changed the batteries and tested the old ones. But they were fine.
So are the new ones
And yet, the heating system does not seem to be getting the house up to
And I'm not sure if it's the furnace controls or what ?
I am presuming that this is some kind of error code
I have the user's manual, but it's pretty sparse about troubleshooting and
and totally empty about error codes.
And I'm not even sure if it's the furnace or the thermostat
Any help would be appreciated.
Most of the time if it says "AC" that means the thermostat is not getting
power. If the furnace is coming on, then I don't think that is the problem.
Make sure the metal "clips" that make contact with the batteries are clean.
If they are AND you put in new batteries, you may want to think about
getting a new thermostat...
Just to respond, I took the time to clean ALL the contacts that I could
reach, not just for the batteries, but those also that connect 5the
thermostat to the wall bracket (and wires to the furnace).
Thinks look OK, and have not had any error codes since.
So you may have hit on the source of the problem
Ultimately, I would like to make some changes to the system anyway.
So, this is a motivator to start looking at the how of it.
Read up on the different thermostats and their functions. I am partial to
Honeywells. I know they are always improving their technology, but I wish
they would have kept the Chronotherm line. I'm about ready to change mine
with one of their touuchscreen models:
I'm looking at putting thermostats and presence sensors to drive motors on
the duct outlets, so that more (warm or cold) air goes to occupied rooms.
And unoccupied rooms are less well provided.
Also program into them whenever they are in high use.
Eg Bathrooms kept warmer in the evening before bedtime.
Setback if house empty but crank up the heat just before people come home
So I'll probably have to look at X-10 and similar systems.
Probably dedicate one of my old laptops with an older version of LINUX to
actually run the logic.
One has to wonder the motivation of morons who respond with such nonsense to
what is a serious problem when the outside temperatures are around 0F
without the wind chill factor.
You give bubba's a bad name, guy
Get a life
One might also wonder the amount of brain cells left in the head of a
fool with such "a serious problem when the outside tempreatures are
around 0F without the wind chill factor".
One would expect one with a halfway competent mind to open the phone
book and call a competent licensed professional to secure the repair
before the home incurred some serious damage such as water pipes
freezing, bursted pipes, soaked drwall ceilings caving in and hardwood
One might find it funny to see such an idiot looking for advice in a
newsgroup where you have no idea of the level of expertise of the
responder while ones home is turning into an icicle.
Bubba (the one with a brain AND a life)
**whats your excuse?"
My home is NOT turning into an icicle for a bunch of reasons
1) I have one gas-fired fireplace which runs at nearly 90 % efficiency
and can keep my house warm at a comforatble 68 degrees as long as the
natural gas flows.
2) I have another wood-fired fireplace in the basement which can also
heat all 3 floors of the house without much problem. And I also have 3 FULL
cords of wood, well seasoned and ready to burn. to keep me toasty well into
next fall, where I to so choose
3) I also have 5 20# tanks of propane, that are filled to capacity and a
propane heater that can keep the whole house, if not toasty, at least
comfortable for over a week. Where everything else to fail
The furnace just happens to be more efficient than my backups. Although not
So I can actually survive till spring if I so choose and only use the
furnace to filter and circulate air to keep the house evenly comfortable.
So what exactly where you assuming, like the solid ass that you are ?
Don't bother aswering.
Whatever you may respond is just not worth my time.
But thanks for playing and demonstrating that without a doubt, you truly are
a GREAT horse's ass packed full of shit.
Too bad for you. My furnace works. I can also get it up much higher
than 68 degrees if I so choose. My heat pump that is connected to my
90% eff var spd 2 stg furnace also works quite well even when it got
down to about 5 degrees last night. I hope your wood pile holds out
till spring. Just pray a little longer. Maybe your solution will fall
from the sky and bash your head in.
That's an excellent signature that describes you to a "T".
Clearly you should look in your mirror to see a TRUE asshole, large
enough to pack a container ship
Now, although I won't bother reading it, I'll let you have the last word
I have better things to do with my time.
Yeah, he's like this a lot.,
I don't know your thermostat, or what is wrong, but as more and more
people have fancy therimostats, and it's cold out, maybe someone who
knows this stuff could give a backup procedure for bypassing the
thermostat entilrely on those nights and weekends when they find it
That is, all the thermostat does iirc is connect or not connect one
set of two wires (that turn the fan on as opposed to automatic) and
two of three wires (either the Heat and the Ground, or the AC and the
Ground) Nice people here have explained this already, and maybe if
one googled for "thermostat furnace red black green yellow**" one
could put together a set of rules for getting through the night.
(Well, I wouldn't let it run *all* night, but you could warm the place
up to 72, turn it off, and get up again when it was 62..
**or whatever the colors are
IIUC, there is no emergency need to have the fan be on anything but
automatic, so that just leaves 3 wires to fiddle with, and one is for
AC. Leaving just two wires. They can be jumpered at the thermostat
or at the furnace (without disconnecting the thermostat I think) Come
to think of it, you could probably take the thermostat out of any
space heater***, and use that in your jumper. Then you could get a
good night's sleep. OR you could install the thermostat you removed
from the wall when you put this one in. You saved it, I hope.
***Make sure you don't use one from a fan. They look the same but
Also I wonder about the -AC code being related to the batteries in the
thermostat, since batteries are DC. Car companies give out the codes;
it would be nice if thermostat companies did too.
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.
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