I just can't seem to be able to do this where it looks good. I've put
caulk on my tub two times now; one using the gun thing ended up with big
globs is places. I wet my finger like it said to do and tried to smooth
every thing out. It looked just awful. I got all that off before it
dried. I then bought the tubes that you just squeeze it out. That looked
a little better but not the way I want it to look.
Our hardware store has strip things of caulk. Anyone ever use these?
Think I will buy some today. My question is how do you do the corners,
or when one piece is used up and have to start with a new one how do you
put them together with no seams?
He means that you should put masking tape along where you are running the
caulking to keep the edges straight and the width uniform, just like if you
wanted to paint a nice stripe where the caulk is going. Run the masking tape
about 3/4 of an inch from the joint between the tub and the wall. One strip on
the tub and one on the wall. Caulking will then stay between them. Pull off the
tape as soon as you have the caulking in place. If you wait until the caulking
cures, the tape may pull off the caulking.
The self adhesive plastic substitute for real caulking looks okay for about 3
days, and then is starts spliting where it creases at the joint, and coming
unstuck. It's a big job to scrape of the adhesive it leaves behind when you
remove it. Junk!
then simply apply the tape so as to leave a a 1/4 line. you have to tape
both sides of the joint.
another key thing is to smooth it as soon as possible after you apply the
bead. if you wait any longer than necessary it will have formed a skin and
trying to smooth it ends up pulling this skin around making it look awful.
also you really want to try not to fidget with it. try to smooth it in one
go and call it good.
On Sat, 28 May 2005 14:23:18 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
By smooth I assume you mean by wetting my finger and going along the
bead or what ever it's called?
The more I did that the last time the worse it looked. Maybe because I
have very small fingers, with kind of long fingernails. I will just do
one pass this time.
yep. incidentally you might want to wet your finger by putting it in water
(i usually use the toilet :P ) rather than by licking it.
that's fidgeting with it. try not to. i've read, but never tried, that you
can smooth caulk with a moist sponge. doesn't sound like it would work as
well as a finger to me but it might be worth a try if you think your fingers
or nails are a problem.
there's no question that it takes some practice and a skilled touch. I
still don't do a great job at corners.
I'll second some of the recommendations...
1. Masking tape on both sides of the joint where you don't want caulk.
2. Appropriate size hole in the nozzle at a 45 degree angle.
3. Nice smooth pressure on the trigger and even speed to apply a
consistent bead in the first place.
4. Plastic cafeteria spoon makes a nice finishing tool. I've also used
whatever other rounded impliment I could find that matched the radius I
was going for. The trick is, the bead should be super thin by the time
it gets to the tape edge. If not, you have to either use a smaller
radius finishing tool, or start over with the tape further away.
5. Once you get it close, stop. Peel the tape off and don't touch it
You can, of course, make it any width you wish. The advantage of a wider swath
is that the caulk has more area spreading the load. This means that a wider
application will usually last longer. Your tub moves! Not much, but enough that
the caulk has to be able to stretch to maintain the seal.
Use masking tape to define the edges where you want the caulk to end.
Run a strip on the tub about 3/8 inch from the corner and another on the
Use a fine tip nozzle and run a bead of caulk in the defined area then
smooth it out with a wet finger.
Allow it to dry overnight then carefully remove the tape - if the tape
begins to lift the caulk run a razor blade along the edges of the paper so
that it does not adhere to the caulk/
It takes some practice - once you get speed, direction and even
pressure, you have it mastered. Clean the gap with bleach. Dry. Lay
down painters' tape along the area you wish to cover. Now - you
practiced this and know how large to cut the opening of the tube (use a
gun), push to apply caulk. Smoothe. Take up the tape right away.
Since you have practiced, you got the caulk the same width as the taped
strip so's the caulk does not lay over the tape. Corners are touchy,
and it might work better to let one side cure before you do the
adjoining side. Gook luck.
The sticky strips I've encountered were trash.
....I've used both the painters tape and the wet finger method.
The tape works great.
The wet finger works best if you use rubbing alcohol instead of water.
I also have many damp paper towels handy to clean my hands as I work.
Dip finger in alcohol, smooth clauk, clean finger when caulk sticks
and dip in alcohol again. Work small sections at a time so the caluk
doesn't skin over before you finish it. If you apply too much caulk
and it begins to get messy, simply wipe it off and do that area again.
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