On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 07:15:19 GMT, email@example.com wrote:
Good thinking. Unfortunately, during my house renovation I've got too
many war stories about buying cheap and paying for it heavily at the
The worst was a Jacuzzi I bought online and tile I got cheap at a
contractors' salvage yard. That story is here:
And just to demonstrate that I don't learn from my own lessons,
another one was just yesterday. I needed some wallpaper to finish off
the guest room I'm building. I spent an afternoon hitting local
wallcovering stores and the Borgs looking for something I liked which
was also in stock. Nothing. I found a yellow pages ad for a store in
Boro Park which claimed to have a million rolls in stock. As soon as
I walked in the funky place, warning bells should have gone off.
There were disorganized boxes of wallpaper all over, none of it with
so much as a manufacturer's label. There was also a large pool of
water on the floor in back from a leaky roof. The owner said it
always happens after a heavy rain.
After an hour, I found some prepasted stuff which was acceptable,
feeling victorious about saving $5 over what I would have paid
elsewhere. I hung it last night.
This morning, it was curling up and falling off the wall. It's not
like I haven't successfully hung a lot of wallpaper in my life. This
stuff was damaged goods. I tested a piece and found that the paste
was almost useless. In a side light you could see where some of it
was dusting off. Then I thought about that pool of water and what the
recurring humidity may have done to it.
One of these days I'll learn the wisdom of "Cry Once", I hope.
Not so. There's no way that a plywood subfloor is going to expand and
contract like solid wood. The wood strip floor slides on top of the
This site has very complete information on the effect of moisture,
strip size, way the wood was cut, etc.
The rest of the house and the subfloor should shrink and expand at the
same rate as the wood floor. That is why you acclimate the wood
flooring before you install it. If everything expands and contracts at
the same rate, you should not have any problems.
Everything expands and contracts at different rates, both based on
temperature and on humidity. The same species of wood can have
markedly different coefficients of expansion depending on whether the
wood was flat or quarter sawn.
The plywood subfloor and finish flooring will not react to the changes
in humidity in the same way at all. That's one of the major benefits
of plywood - the cross grain limits the expansion and contraction.
Plywood is cross grain for each layer it wont contract-expand the same
as plank, plank length will not shrink it is the width that shrinks .
Floor instalers need a moisture meter to check the condition of the
floor to the home as storage -shipping is where it will meet high
humidity or wet conditions. It is also a matter of it being the proper
moisture for a closed house during new construction and what it will be
when heated and cooled. Without a moisture meter and tables it is a
guess likely to fail.
I have a similar story to tell. I have had shoulder pain for the last
couple of weeks. A few trips to a massage therapist didn't improve
the situation much.
One day I finally realized what was wrong with my shoulders. I've
been painting my whole house in anticipation of new hardwood and
carpet. My shoulder pain was the direct result of me hand sanding the
I had though about buying a $20 sander but thought I could save the
$20 by hand sanding.
So I finally broke down and bought a $20 electrical sander and the
paint job went much faster and the shoulder pain disappeared.
Even though my insurance covered my $200 massages but I still had to
endure the pain and suffering for a few weeks.
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 19:24:50 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If you've got a long-running house renovation in progress, it probably
won't be the first time you'll visit shoulder pain. I had it for
months after building a pair of fences in 2001:
Even though I used a framing nailer, the gun's still quite heavy.
After driving several thousand nails the kickback gets to you, plus
digging a few dozen post holes by hand didn't help. Fortunately, the
neighbor who got the second fence is a chiropractor.
I re-injured it last year after tripping over one of those BigBoxStore
toilet paper packages in my shop and landing on the cement floor.
That stopped work cold for six weeks.
Yeah, that'll kill your shoulder, especially sanding ceilings. I
still prefer to do this mostly by hand with a sanding block because of
the dust that a power sander kicks up. What makes it worse is that my
walls are old, neglected plaster so I elected to skim coat many of
them after patching the cracks/holes. The finish work for that
generates an unbelievable amount of dust.
My local rental place has a power sander coupled to a shopvac-like
device but I've never tried it.
He posed some concerns, but gave the wrong reasons. I would kick him to the
curb. Hardwood is installed year round, indoor humidity control deals with
the moisture content of the wood. After all, you're not installing the
floor outside in the extremes of dry/wet conditions. Smaller strips are not
used because the contraction/expansion is smaller, it's because it's less
likely to cup than a wider board because it is more stable. Wood species
reacts differently to moisture content. Some wood you want for a hardwood
is: American cherry, Oak, American Walnut, Teak, and there are more. You
want to make sure to acclimate to conditions b/4 installing. The main
concern is indoor humidity control.
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