Neutral, Negative, -, Ground
(This is the basically the negative end of the circuit)
Positive, Hot, +
(This is basically the Positive end of the circuit, and is the one that
comes from the breakers)
No insulation or green insulation
Ground, Case Ground
(This is there to give the hot wire something easy to touch so that it
will blow a breaker instead of laying there like a trap waiting for you
to touch it, and is electrically the same as the Black Wire when you
test it with your meter.)
Be sure that all your plugs are wired the same or you can get shocked
by touching two cases at the same time that are plugged into two
Looks like I have them backwards.
Anyone have a web cite that would show the correct wiring?
I got my information form a web cite that had a picture of a plug.
I still have the pic as a file to refer back to.
No matter how you wire it, it has to be the same as what is already
If they have it backward, then you better stick with there wiring code
or you will get shocked.
And as to + & - in AC, it is simply a better way to keep track of what
is going on.
You have to have a completed circuit to do anything (a + & -) and
thinking of it this way helps keep things simple.
Much to hard for most people to grasp that that one wire is a + 30
times a second, and a - 30 times a second.
Actually it is + 60 times a second and - 60 times a second. Sixty hertz is
"60 cycles per second" and each cycle has both + and - alternations.
Reversed power wiring often is caused by people who are more familiar with
automotive or electronic wiring than with AC power conventions. It obviously
works but creates totally unnecessary and possibly severe hazards.
You may be right.
I would have to get access to an oscilloscope to be sure.
Either way, it switched way to often and fast for me to try to keep
track of it so I just try to make sure that all my plugs are the same.
The thing that amazes me is how few people actually know or understand
this fact (AC switches + & - on the same wire).
I have even had people that worked with the electric company who's
profession was to work on the high lines that constantly clamed that I
He kept saying that an AC current was traveling down the line, but
could not comprehend what that actually meant.
Swore that the + wire was always +, but with an AC signal going down it.
It's confusing because a neutral wire is not required to be insulated
when ran overhead. A true neutral carries the difference in current
between TWO out of phase hot legs of a single phase system or TWO or
more phases of a 3 phase system. The neutral also maintains a balanced
voltage. That's why when there is a bad neutral connection in a house
that some lights will be dim and others will be bright.
In a house in a circuit that has a black, white, and bare wire in a
romex cable, the white wire is technically _not_ a neutral wire since
it does not carry the difference in current between two circuits.
HOWEVER in the trade, to avoid confusion, any white or gray wire is
called a "neutral", and any bare or green wire is called a "ground".
The "ground", as electrician's would say, is technically the grounding
conductor; more specifically, the equipment grounding conductor.
If that isn't confusing enough we can throw in the term "bonding" :-)
confusing you further is possible.
The bare wire from the utility is a grounded conductor, not necessarily a
neutral and has nothing to do with your house wiring terminology. The
utility works on a different set of rules and regs.
Where I live the bare conductor in the service drop is called the "messenger
wire" or sometimes the 'static' wire. It is usually steel or steel core
surrounded by AL. Much stronger than the "conductors" that are insulated.
Even though the neutral conductor on the entrance cable is grounded,
that means is at ground potential but will carry current difference
between the two hot legs. When suspended can be bare, others are
insulated as so can be twisted together and not short. Buried lines have
all conductors insulated.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.