hi, I have recently relgazed a large bow window on my house. my house
is appox 80 years old. my question is regarding the inside of the
window. I am going to paint the inside of the window . Side note-
since the windows had very poor glazing- lots of moisture seeped into
the inside section of the window and has caused the paint in the house
to peel. I am in the process of scrapping the paint from the inside
section of the bow windows- this is- inside the hosue.. Is it
necessary to put any glaze compound on the inside of the window? or
should I just put paint there... Again, the outside have been
reglazed- my question is about the inside.. Thanks
What's there now? Normally with a window that uses glazing, it only
goes on the outside
of the window around the perimeter of each pane
of glass after the glass is put in against the
wood. The other side of the glass just rests against
the wood frame of the window.
yes I realize glaze is on the outside.. on the inside- which is my
living room I have scraped paint but was wondering if i should put
something around glass edges on the inside to stop moisture? or just
paint it thanks!!
The "correct" (or infinitely nit picked) procedure for glazing or re-
glazing a wooden window is:
1) apply some thinned orange shellac to the window sash material where
the glass will seat and allow it to dry
2) apply a very small amount of glazing compound to the same surface
to act as a bedding compound
3) seat the glass and glaze as usual
4) on the inside I typically prep with a bit latex caulk and paint as
If the sashes have been neglected or moisture damaged, I suggest
applying a couple treatments of lineseed oil thinned with turpentine
prior to the shellac.
I use an organic linseed oil glazing compound.
On 2/12/2012 4:40 PM, email@example.com wrote:
The proper way to reglaze is to place glazing compound before the glass
so that there is g.c. on inside and outside. Inside, of course, would
be a very thin layer. If the interior wood is "weathered", it should be
sanded prior to priming and painting. Painting will leave a fine line
of paint on the glass, which aids in keeping moisture from reaching the
Yes, I always used a thin ribbon of putty to bed the new glass.
Not for water resistance, but to prevent rattles.
If the outside was glazed right, the inside will only get moisture
from inside condensation.
Filling those small gaps with paint keeps moisture out.
Glass is an easy place to use masking tape, but a razor cleans it up
so easy I never bothered with tape.
I always used boiled linseed oil on badly weathered wood windows
Seemed to work well.
Well, the time to have done any needed repair (other than cosmetic) was
while you had the glass out.
I like a thin primer or at a minimum soak w/ linseed oil the frame under
the glass for some moisture protection but it's too late after having
glazed unless you did.
The inside is not glazed; just do as any repaint--scrape, rough prep and
needed repair then sanding and if weathered an oxalic acid wash to
remove oxidized layer that will prevent long-term adherence if present
and then normal prep and paint.
Your best bet would be to seal the inside glass/wood interface with a
curing type oil. Linseed oil (boiled) is good, tung oil is better.
Read the directions on the tung oil container for diluents like
turpentine, or whatever, and thin as need to allow maximum
penetration. Wipe off the excess as directed, and recoat as
reccommended. The cure will take several weeks, after which the wood
can be painted.
That is a good plan, but doesn't work with all glazing compounds. This
would be for oily g.c., I believe. Gotta follow label directions/ Here
is a link to one of DAP's glazing compound tech. data sheets:
It recommends using an oil-based primer on wood prior to glazing.
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