I am about to replace some panes in the windows of an old building (WWII!). They have metal frames each pane is about 9" square. I have 2 questions.
i) Is there a modern material to replace linseed oil putty? The latter is a messy substances to work with.
ii) Assuming I could cut glass to the necessary accuracy [:-(], what clearance should be left between pane and frame?
TIA Frank
My recollection is that linseed oil putty was never recommended for metal w indows. Originally I remember the choice was either 'putty' (for wooden win dows) or 'metal casement putty', but since I never worked with metal window s I can't comment on how easy that was to use. These days Google will find you lots of options...
I think it's Wickes who do an acrylic putty. Very easy to use but it might rust metal. Perhaps a white metal primer would prevent that
Critall windows (20th century) are galvanised. The the late victorian industrial ones may not be.
You will probably find there are also little pins buried in the putty also holding the glass in. I think this was because putty was so shit those days that it sometimes fell out.
If this is an occupied building you are likely better to get rid of the bloody things. (heat loss)
Theya re called glazing sprigs. There are there to hold the glass in place while you are appllying the putty.
Metal casement putty. If it's too soft, work a ball of it in newspaper until its usable. When you remove the old putty, watch out for the metal clips that hold the glass in place, recover and refit them before face puttying.
Make sure that all the old putty is removed (don't leave bits of bedding of face putty in the rebates) and any rust scraped off before applying the new bedding putty. If you don't sods-law will dictate that the high point will crack the glass when ypu press it down into the putty.
That depends on the size of the rebate - but if possible, cut the glass so that it will drop into the rebates and leave a small gap between the edge of the glass and the frame.
Cash
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