GFI bathroom re wiring

So, if they run them sequentially for 5 mins each, instead of for 5 mins at the same time they will save energy?

Not from my understanding of the code. IDK why you'd want to staple them there anyway, on the sides of the joists is easier if you're going along the joist. Most logical reason to staple cable on the bottom of the joists would be to run them at angles to the joist, which is not allowed. You need a running board or drill holes in the joists.

Yes, it's more work, but it's a code violation to go across joists by just stapling to the bottom.

Reply to
trader4
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to move one of the outlets because of a larger mirror that I will be insta lling to make wife and daughter happy.

the wall. And I think leaving it outside will cause my framed mirror to not sit flat.

e breaker is dedicated to the bathroom GFI's only. I have only 3 outlets cu rrently on this entire 20 amp circuit.

wever, from this outlet it goes to two other bathrooms and I cant find the wires that branch the outlets together. I am guessing it is through the stu ds when they built the house and as such, they may be inaccessible or if th ey do go into the attic are covered under the floor of my bonus room to whi ch I have no access because the bonus room is finished.

somehow recess a new box so that the access cover would be flush with the wall. Then run a wire from this box into the crawl space then to the two ne w outlets in the bathroom.

ction box in the attic where the current feed is to the existing outlet, ru n a wire from this junction box down the entire length of the wall into the crawl space. Install another junction box in the crawl space and make the connection to the new outlets here. I would also have to run new wires from the two other outlets in the two other bathrooms into the crawl space to t ie into the junction box. (Doing it this way requires new wiring on the ent ire circuit but eliminates an accessible junction box being required in the wall).

the outlets are. If I have connections in the crawl space where sometimes there is a little moisture after a lot of rain, will I have trouble with th e GFI tripping? My idea would be to use one of those outside metal moisture proof boxes but just run regular 12/2 wire to this junction. Would using c onduit to this junction be a better idea?

ying to make the installation as protected as possible. Nothing should happ en but I have a lot of moisture in the crawlspace. More than should be. My duct work is dripping wet in the summer. I need to figure out something on that.

Yes and no. AFAIK, you can run romex in conduit as long as it's a dry location. Romex however is not rated for wet, whether in a conduit or not. However, I doubt the joist area of your crawlspace qualifies as a wet location. If it does, you have bigger problems. The moisture you're seeing on ducts in the summer I presume is condensation with the AC running? Are the ducts insulated? Wire going anywhere near them?

The other alternative I guess would be to run UF cable. But I don't see the need and it would probably stand out and attract attention during any inspections.

ven allow romex. Is EMT with individual wires inside the ultimate installat ion in terms od longevity and protection?

Depends. Conduit offers great protection from physical damage. If you're running wire down an exposed garage wall for example. But romex is used in millions of homes and when used correctly is perfectly safe. Is there any existing wire in the crawlspace now? It's what you'd expect to find there.

Reply to
trader4

ve to move one of the outlets because of a larger mirror that I will be ins talling to make wife and daughter happy.

e the wall. And I think leaving it outside will cause my framed mirror to n ot sit flat.

ire breaker is dedicated to the bathroom GFI's only. I have only 3 outlets currently on this entire 20 amp circuit.

However, from this outlet it goes to two other bathrooms and I cant find th e wires that branch the outlets together. I am guessing it is through the s tuds when they built the house and as such, they may be inaccessible or if they do go into the attic are covered under the floor of my bonus room to w hich I have no access because the bonus room is finished.

nd somehow recess a new box so that the access cover would be flush with th e wall. Then run a wire from this box into the crawl space then to the two new outlets in the bathroom.

unction box in the attic where the current feed is to the existing outlet, run a wire from this junction box down the entire length of the wall into t he crawl space. Install another junction box in the crawl space and make th e connection to the new outlets here. I would also have to run new wires fr om the two other outlets in the two other bathrooms into the crawl space to tie into the junction box. (Doing it this way requires new wiring on the e ntire circuit but eliminates an accessible junction box being required in t he wall).

ut the outlets are. If I have connections in the crawl space where sometime s there is a little moisture after a lot of rain, will I have trouble with the GFI tripping? My idea would be to use one of those outside metal moistu re proof boxes but just run regular 12/2 wire to this junction. Would using conduit to this junction be a better idea?

trying to make the installation as protected as possible. Nothing should ha ppen but I have a lot of moisture in the crawlspace. More than should be. M y duct work is dripping wet in the summer. I need to figure out something o n that.

even allow romex. Is EMT with individual wires inside the ultimate install ation in terms od longevity and protection?

The duct is insulated and the moisture is when the ac is running. Suprissin gly, all my electrical connections come from the top. There are very few, i f any wires in the crawl space.

Sorry I am overly anal sometimes when it comes to doing something. I just w ant to do a good job that will last and not cause a danger or problem for m e or my family. I thought maybe conduit would add protection. I don't think the line would cross duct work but it might. Thanks,

Reply to
stryped1

No, it is not. Just a good way to keep union electricians employed. Romex is far simpler, and every bit as good as far as long like unless you have a rat problem.

Reply to
clare

to move one of the outlets because of a larger mirror that I will be instal ling to make wife and daughter happy.

he wall. And I think leaving it outside will cause my framed mirror to not sit flat.

breaker is dedicated to the bathroom GFI's only. I have only 3 outlets cur rently on this entire 20 amp circuit.

ever, from this outlet it goes to two other bathrooms and I cant find the w ires that branch the outlets together. I am guessing it is through the stud s when they built the house and as such, they may be inaccessible or if the y do go into the attic are covered under the floor of my bonus room to whic h I have no access because the bonus room is finished.

somehow recess a new box so that the access cover would be flush with the w all. Then run a wire from this box into the crawl space then to the two new outlets in the bathroom.

tion box in the attic where the current feed is to the existing outlet, run a wire from this junction box down the entire length of the wall into the crawl space. Install another junction box in the crawl space and make the c onnection to the new outlets here. I would also have to run new wires from the two other outlets in the two other bathrooms into the crawl space to ti e into the junction box. (Doing it this way requires new wiring on the enti re circuit but eliminates an accessible junction box being required in the wall).

the outlets are. If I have connections in the crawl space where sometimes t here is a little moisture after a lot of rain, will I have trouble with the GFI tripping? My idea would be to use one of those outside metal moisture proof boxes but just run regular 12/2 wire to this junction. Would using co nduit to this junction be a better idea?

I don't believe that is true. What is required is that the *circuit* be rated at 20 amps and the outlets be GFCI protected. The outlets can be either 15A or 20A.

Since

There is another aspect to it. I believe if you have a 20 amp circuit supplying one bathroom, then you can have the lights, fan, etc in that bathroom on the same circuit. If you supply more than one bathroom with the same 20 amp circuit, then only the outlets can be on it.

Reply to
trader4

Using pipe does make it easier to rewire or augment the circuit later, however. FWIW.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

A 15A GFCI offers no more over current protection than a 20A. A 15A GFCI is inferior to a 20A. That's why they cost less.

Reply to
Metspitzer

If possible, it is good to run light fixtures in any room on a different ci rcuit than wall outlets, so that if you trip the wall outlet breaker, you w ill not kill the lights in that room. Thiis is especially good to note whe n the bathroom is an interior room with no outside windows.

Reply to
hrhofmann

So what? No one said they did. But you can put a 15A GFCI on a

15A circuit. You can't put a 20A GFCI on a 15A circuit.

Define inferior. Again, if I have an outdoor receptacle in an older home that is not GFCI protected and it's on a 15 amp circuit, if I want to make it GFCI, what's wrong with using a 15A one? Or if I have an old home with receptacles with no ground on 15 amp circuits. What's wrong with using a 15A GFCI there?

Reply to
trader4

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