10 Year old GE Profile Side by Side.
Insufficent cooling on refrigerator side regardless of thermostat setting
in the normal range or all the way down.
We have frequent problems where the refrigerator side is not cooling
properly although the freezer side seems to do ok. Often it *seems* to be
traceable to dust & lint laden condensor coils underneath; at least
cleaning them makes the problem go away. This unit seems to be
hypersenstive to dirty coils. Not sure if that is the case this time but
while I wait to cleaning them cured it again I would like to know a bit
more about this model.
Where does the cold air enter the refrigerator side or does it just come
over for the freezer side? Does the freezer 'stat run the show and the
refrigerator 'stat just control air coming from the freezer side? I'd like
to check if something is blocked. Besides the adjustable opening down by
the veggie crisper I presume whatever else there is must be up by the
controls and light. How does the cover panel come off? Right now while
the unit is running I don't hear any sound of fan forced air inside the
refrigerator compartment but naturally it's one of those things where I
can't remember whether I'm supposed to or not; I don't recall what
If there is an actual refrigeration problem I will get a pro in but as
things are staying frozen on the freezer side if it something minor like a
blocked damper I'll have a go at it. It seems likely it's something like
that. I don't mind a little disassembly; I cleaned a plugged condensate
drain on the freezer side a year or two back.
When you have it unplugged to clean the coils, the
ice will melt. When you plug it back in and it's
working open the freezer and see where the air is
blowing from. On mine its in the lower middle back
of the freezer.
I called a repairman and the whole thing cost me
$110. out of pocket. He installed something that
will make it not happen again.
This is Turtle.
First by what you have said here you need to do the setting of
thermostats to see if it is this , that is the problem. Put both
thermostat to center scale. If it has 10 on it set it on five. if it
has 100 set it on 50. If it has A to E you set it on C . Then let it
operate for 24 hours with the doors closed as much as you can. Then
check the refrigerator compartment to see the temperature and also the
the freezer compartment. In the refrigerator compartment it should be
between 33 degrees F. to 39 degree F.. In the freezer it should be -5
degrees f. to +5 degrees F. . there is nothing wrong with it if the
temperature is in these ranges sfter this test. then really in the
regular use of it they should stay in these ranges. Post back with the
Middle is how we normally have it set for both (the "5" has a little box
around it) and that has produced acceptable temps. I've since set it
colder of course--fridge side is all the way down now. Under normal
circumstances that would produce freezing on some foods. Before I started
cleaning the coils--just a half assed job so far--it's late at night and I
will do more tomorrow--I was seeing temps in the high 50's at the top of
the fridge side; clearly unacceptable. I've since moved the probe more to
the middle--just atop the crisper drawers. Temp reading is in the low 40's
so it may be getting better if it continues to drop.
What was puzzling me when I first started noticing that something wasn't
right was that it was cycling off even though temps on the fridge side were
too high. Usually when I go through the dirty condensor routine I notice
it not shutting off before I notice the temp issues. Now it could just be
that it's the dirt issue once again and maybe I happened to notice it not
running when a defrost cycle happened to occur. But the idea of a blocked
cross passage from the freezer makes a lot of sense.
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