Agreed. It is easy with the correct tools and some experience. It is
very dangerous without both. Years ago, my father in law seriously
injured his hand while trying to improvise a tool to replace a spring.
The tool broke and spun around very quickly with the broken end
slicing into his hand. I am 99.9% DIY, but I always hire someone to
replace my torsion springs when they fail.
While it's true that replacing a garage door torsion spring CAN be
dangerous, you should be aware that most of the danger lies in the fact
that you use steel bars to hold tension on the torsion spring while you
loosen the set screws that hold it to the torsion rod. It's the turning
of the torsion rod that raises and lowers the door. So, when you stick
a steel rod into the end of the torsion spring and loosen those set
screws, the instant the set screw lets go of the torsion rod, the force
that was in that spring now goes into turning the steel bar you're
holding. It's not a great amount of force, but you can eliminate most
of the danger by making sure that your head and face are out of the path
that the steel bar would swing in if that bar your holding would slip
and swing under the force of the torsion spring.
That is, if you make a consious effort to keep your face and head out of
the path of the bar if it swings, you avoid most of the danger in doing
I've replaced one of the torsion springs on my sister's double wide
garage door, and I didn't find it either difficult or all that
dangerous. I was a bit apprehensive about undoing the set screws
holding the torsion spring to the torsion bar, but when I felt that the
force was within my strength to support, I immediately felt a sense of
If you have the owner's manual for your garage door, or can find the
manufacturer's name somewhere on the door and download the owner's
manual or installation manual, you can just follow the instructions
I made notes of the procedure I followed in replacing the torsion spring
on my sister's two car garage door. If you want to, I can copy and
paste it into this thread for you to copy and paste into Windows Notepad
and print off.
If you are handy with proper tools, watch Youtube tutorial to
familiarize yourself with the procedure, it is doable. If two
springs, replace both. And rub the springs with oil soaked
rug to minimize dry friction when done(make the springs last longer)
It can seriously injure or even kill you if not careful. Or pros
will do it for you in about less than 2 hours. It costs flat 250.00
where I live. I did it couple times, not as fast as pros but not a
difficult job doing it alone while some one watches on the side for
Thanks for that tip!
I'm on the phone with a guy named "Dan" right now!
He sounds like he knows what he's talking about because he had me measure
the broken spring while I was on the phone with him.
I'm ordering two new larger springs and the tools as soon as we figure
out the best upgrade from 10,000 cycles to 70,000 cycles which only costs
a few bucks more.
nestork wrote, on Fri, 19 Sep 2014 16:00:56 +0200:
Thanks but the link Oren gave to ddm doors has videos of everything.
I ordered two springs, two steel bars, and three bearings.
It should arrive next week by UPS and I will just follow the video.
Looks pretty easy.
The dangerous part is not making an unscripted mistake.
BenDarrenBach wrote, on Fri, 19 Sep 2014 09:28:18 -0700:
That's the guy Oren gave me the link to.
I spoke to him. His name is Dan.
He patently had me measure the spring while he was on the phone.
They are sending me two new larger longer springs, three bearings, and
two steel rods. Dan told me I can buy the rods at a hardware store but I
got them from him because he was so helpful.
Good luck with it. As long as springs are matching your door(size and
weight). The heavier ther better does not apply in this case. We'd like
to hear feedback after you finish the job. There are many Youtube
tutorials out there.
That's the guy. Thanks!
I will watch his videos until the parts arrive.
Other than safety goggles, it looks like I only need a vise grip, step
ladder, a couple of wrenches, and the two steel winding bars.
The guy was patient with me. He even talked me out of the fancy springs,
saying the plain black ones were just fine if I oil them once a year.
So, the only upgrade was thicker steel, which means it will last longer.
So is the dog in the car or running beside it? ;-)
My problem here is 4-way stops. If the entrances are 1, 2, 3, and
4, when 1 is entitled to go, 3 is also, even if he got to the stop later
than 2 and 4, but here 1 goes and 3 stays still, then 2 goes, but 4
doesn't) , then 3 goes (and if anyone has arrived at 1, he doesn't),
then 4 goes, but 2 doesn't. And so on. It must take 60% longer
to get through the intersection than it should.
Also, at the last stop sign before my house, I often come from the east
and turn left. If I put my turn signal on, a reflex, the car
approaching me waits until I've turned. Wastes time. I've almost
learned to leave the signal off until we pass each other in the
intersection and then turn it on and turn left right behind him.
And there's room enough for two cars side-by-side at most stop signs, if
only the cars in front of me would pull to one side or the other, but
some sit in the middle.
On Fri, 19 Sep 2014 18:21:34 +0000 (UTC), Shlomo Baumgard
Buy Vise-grip brand vise grips. They aren't that expensive ($8 a few
years ago) and they wear like iron, or steel. And have lots of uses.
I usually use the ones with the curved jaws, fwiw.
There are other brands, and no-name brands, and I've ended up with some,
but for anything strenuous, I only trust Vise-Grip (R)
On Friday, September 19, 2014 3:44:40 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
Like many other things, they're not what they used to be. The old Peterson Vise-Grips were the best, then USA Irwin, then the current offshore Irwin are less desirable yet.
If I needed new ones today I might consider trying the Grip-Ons; rumor has it they make the locking pliers for at least one of the big "tool truck" brands.
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