I used foam board with the silvery reflective surface , 4 by 8 sheets
available at HD or Lowes light as a feather and gives some small amout of
insulation . Cover the seams with duct tape . can easily be handled by one
Speaking of insulation - I wonder why no one has suggested sound insulating
ceiling covering. I'd have thought that, given the noise that can be generated
in a shop, having something absorbe the noise would be useful.
'Course the dust would collect in most sound tile I've seen...
Thanks for the replies. I will probably just go with drywall. I have
24" centers, so I would need to use 5/8" drywall to prevent sag?
What do you think of priming and painting the drywall before I put it
up? I'd have to go over it again and paint the seams, and over the
screw holes, but I think it would be a lot easier than trying to prime
and paint 816 sq feet of ceiling that's 10.5 feet above my head.
I don't suppose paneling will work? That thin stuff that finds itself
on a lot of basement walls. It would probably sag?
You could install strapping to help ease the sagging...
If you plan on using kraft backed fiberglass batts, you should consider
insulation *before* you hang the drywall.
As for painting first, it's probably not a good idea. You'll need a good bond
for the mud
and you will not know how far you'll need to feather the joints until it's
Also, the paint will probably get marred during install but the lift or some
On 22 Sep 2003 06:15:53 -0700, email@example.com (Ryan) wrote:
Perhaps not. When I had my drywall hung earlier this year, due to my
own ignorance, I had set all my ceiling electrical boxes at 1/2 inch.
The contractor said, OK, he'd just use 1/2 inch "ceiling-type"
The material he installed IS marked "Ceiling"--must be somewhat
stiffer. No sag yet, but time will tell.
Like you, my ceiling trusses are on 24" centers (upstairs, but 16"
joists downstairs--this is a detached workshop))
Yikes! I'm currently taping and finishing the drywall myself--a first
time experience for me, so my mudding is kinda messy. No way would I
have painted beforehand!
I'll just unscrew the mesh sander from its telescoping handle and
screw on the paint roller. Rolling paint overhead has GOT to be
easier than sanding overhead!
Oops--just looked back and noticed you said 10.5' above your HEAD.
Guess that's pretty high up.
The fact the Drywall isn't flammable has to be a concern.
I finished my basement myself and used drywall on the ceiling. All I
used were 8 Eye Bolts and 2 pieces of 2 x 4.
Cut 2 lenghts of 2 x 4's just longer the 4' so you can screw an eye
bolt in either and fit the drywall in between, like so:
Screw the other 4 eye bolts into the rafters where you want to place
the drywall. I then used 4 nylon strap (the kind with the rachet
tightener) to hoist the drywall into place. Use another 2 x 4 to
press it hard against the ceiling.
When I say I did the ceiling myself, I mean I didn't have anyone else
in the room.
If I did go with plywood on the ceiling, how thin could it be without
sagging? How about OSB?
I'm leaning more away from drywall, untaped/mudded it would look very
ugly, I think?... but mudding/taping/sanding then painting that much
area sounds like more work than I want to do. I would like to get
cheap, thin plywood, paint it, then put it up with white screws. I
could live with the seams.
I will also look at other wall materials, I saw some mentioned in this
thread but I have no idea what those things are. The only building
store here is a Menards, and they don't have a lot of selection. The
new Lowes is supposed to open in November.
Someone mentioned that they just but up foam insulation board. Will
consider that too...
Thanks for all the responses.
Something to think about is that sheets of drywall are cheap. Plywood
is not usually so inexensive. Perhaps you should contact a drywall crew
and compare their per foot price to that of installing plywood yourself.
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