The $270 quote sounds a bit too high. I hope it was a free estimate,
and you did not have to pay for the initial diagnostics. The door has
1. The Washer Door Catch (Attached to the door). This is easy to
replace by yourself. In my washer, this part is fine. If your machine
needs just this part, you can fix it yourself for less than $10.
2. The complete door lock /latch kit with all the wires. This is what
my washer will probably need. The cost is about $70 to $90 (cheaper on
the web). However, where it is connected is in a tight spot, and I will
need the repairman to install it. So, that will add his cost: $45 for
the first 15 minutes, and $10 each additional 15 minutes
The repairman was supposed to fix my machine last Friday, but on
Thursday, his truck's axle broke :( So he called to reschedule -- let's
hope it gets fixed this week. I'll send you an email when it is done,
with details. And a referral, if you are in the Bay Area.
Thanks for the information.
I think I have figured out how to fix or manage to use the wash machine
before it is fully fixed.
The door catch looks intact. When the door is closed (locked), the
upper portion of the door catch goes into the
upper hole of the door lock assembly, pressing the lever upwards which
turns on the power for motor. Also when the lever is pressed upwards,
the lower portion of the door catch is engaged in the lower hole of the
door lock assembly, which prevents the door from getting loose during
the wash cycles. My washmachine's lever has been drooped
slightly downward and the upper protruding portion of door catch can
not push the lever upwards, instead it pushes
the lever forwards. I am in the middle of reshaping the door catch
using Dremel grinder so that it has right angle with
respect to the lever. I already tried once, but I grinded the catch
wrongly. I have ordered another door catch.
In the meantime, we are using the washmachine by inserting three
quarter conins at the bottom of the door to press
the lever upwards. It works great, even thou primitive.
I will inform you in some days whether it has been fully fixed or we
are still using quarters to make it work.
Also I will be intetrested what is the progress at your side.
If you run into a problem with the replacement motor, the installer
will not warrant the one you supplied yourself. That's why they're
entitled to the markup. They're assuming extra risk.
Pay them to do the entire job, and they will make good on any
subsequent problems. Pay them to install your part, and you're on
your own if it fails.
Mine (same model) wouldn't spin today. It just loafed a little one way,
and sat, and loafed a little the other, and sat, taking half an hour
for a quick "drain and spin" cycle and leaving the clothes soppy. I
tried four times with no luck and went to hunt down the manual. The
manual says that can be caused by an inadequately latched door or a
too-small load. In my case, throwing in a couple of wet hand towels
with what was indeed a small load solved the problem.
If it has a mechanical timer, it is sticking and running slow. The
timer needs to be cleaned/serviced or replaced.
The timer uses a motor to make contacts connect to other contacts as the
mechanis moves in a full circle. When the contacts are rubbing
together, more force is needed to use it so it will run slower or
intermittently start/stop along its path.
Front loaders in general seem to have more problems than top loaders.
IMO. We went through a 6 year nightmare with Maytag (Neptune model).
Can you say class action suit?! Anyway we have another Front loader,
Whirlpool for about 9 months so far, so good. Our friends have the
Frigidaire for over a year, no problems yet.
Yes, front loaders do tend to have more problems due to the more
complicated engineering, so an extended warranty is a good idea for
these machines. Our Frigidaire Gallery is coming up on 3 years of
good service, only had to have the door gasket replaced with a
redesigned one that stopped the small seepage. Works great, does
about 5-6 loads a week.
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