First Earthquake Valve Install - Advice Needed

I will be installing a earthquake gas valve for the first time and have a couple of questions. FYI, LIttle Firefighter.

The main feed into my house is 1 1/4 and the line into the meter is 3/4". So what I am planning on doing is this. There is a 3/4" nipple coming out of the meter on the house side into a coupling and then a line which elbows into the house. I am planning on leaving the 3/4" nipple in and putting a bell reducer to open into a 1 1/4" line which will then elbow into the 1

1/4" feed into the house. I understand now that the feed that the valve is on must be the same diameter as the feed into the house but I do not think that it requires 1 1/4" into the meter itself. Any advice on this first part would be appreciated if I am planning anything that sounds stupid.

Secondly, is there a code in California to anyones knowledge which requires me to put a ball valve on the line just before it enters into the house? I seem to have heard that somewhere but to my knowledge the only shutoff I have every been familiar with is the one on the meter. Please set me straight on this one.

Thirdly, how do I bleed the line once I have installed the meter. I understand that this is good practice but not sure how to do it.

Fourthly, is the shutoff at the meter sufficient to be horizontal or do I need to tweak it as far as it will go to shut off the line after the meter. It will go horizontal and then about 22 1/2 degrees but I had heard horizontal is a positive shutoff. Is this true?

Lastly, the bracket comes with two bolts ( three holes on the bracket) ... instructions says that it can either be mounted to a stud or in alligator molly's that come with it. I had always thought that going into studs was a must but maybe I am wrong.

Hi,

You're fine here. The pressure is so low and the difference in pipe size so little it wil not affect the flow or pressure at all. Part one is good.

The valve on the meter is all that is supposed to be there. If you add a valve you are legally obligated to get a permit and be a liscensed gas repairman. Adding a valve is not a good idea becasue it is another place that would be apt to leak if it failed.

If you are going to be creating sparks or heat you should bleed the line. If you have an air compressor just blow it in the line after opening a connection in the furnace and the gas which is very little will flow out the stack. If not just blow with your mouth about twenty times. Gas is lighter than air.

To shut the valve off it must be perfectly perpindicular with the pipe (Make a cross) but do not turn past a cross or it is openeing again. Run straight with pipe to be full on.

The Alligators are actually called toggles and they should work fine if it is hollow behind the surface you want to mount to.

candice