Engine hoist capacity

[big e lewis]

I am building an engine hoist framework, to hang a chainfall. I will be using it to pull and install engines and trans in my racecar and other various vehicles. I planned on using 4x4's for the uprights and the top crossboard. The crossboard, that the chainfall will hang from, will be

10' long. Is a 4x4 strong enough, or should I use a 4x6, or something else entirely? I figure the engine/trans combos shouldn't be more than 700 or 800#. Plus maybe a momentary higher weight when a mount hangs up, and the front of the car lifts up a little with the engine. Any comments/thoughts are appreciated! Thanks, Big E

[BobK207]

Big E-

I would suggest that you look for a small A-frame style gantry on Craigslist

Take a look at mcmaster.com under floor crane to get an idea of what the design looks like in steel.

Timber is pretty variable material & the strength from piece to piece can vary a lot.

A 4x4 is way undersized ... a 4x6 is getting closer.

The connection details are very important to performance of the system.

Wood though easy to work with isn't ideal material for this application.

Several 100's of pounds of auto components suspended chest high off the ground is a non-trivial activity that could seriously hurt or kill someone if it falls.

Lifting systems are required to have substantial safety margin....your home brew solution, while doable (if you know what you're doing), could be a disaster waiting to happen.

cheers Bob

[DT]

A 4x4 will definitely not be strong enough. I have one made up with double

2x8's with a 7 foot width that I have pulled an engine with. I would keep the width as short as practical. Do not drill the beam to attach the hoist, make a metal strap to go around, or use a nylon sling wrapped around the beam.

Here is a program that will calculate the bend in a wooden shelf or beam, just put in various measurements and wood type. Best to size it for ordinary wood: spruce, pine, etc. unless you can get Douglas fir.

[Oren]

1) If you have a large Oak tree - hoist the engine from the largest branch. 2) Drop the engine on the ground, then roll the car back down the ramp. 3) Build a T-Pee with three 3" galvanized pipes, assemble the hoist/with pipe and hoist the engine.

[dpb]

Yes. :)

But OP said 10-ft span which would be stretching it by quite a bunch...

I'm w/ the suggestion on looking at alternatives including biting the bullet and buying a decent-sized beam--amongst other things, would allow the hoist to be tracked, always a useful enhancement.

If use lumber, would suggest 2-3 2x8 or -10s minimum, but that's simply a "feels about right" sizing, I didn't even estimate a stress number...

--

[S. Barker]

better get some updated info on those weights. Unless you're running an aluminum 4 cyl.

s

[nicksanspam]

Depends on the span, no? If M = WL/8 = 100L and S = M/1000 and 3.5 = sqart(6S/3.5), L = 71" max, approximately.

Nick

[Nate Nagel]

I'd design for at least 1500#, for example, a Studebaker V-8 weighs over

600 lbs. fully dressed with clutch and bellhousing but without transmission. I'd imagine if you work on 4x4s you could conceivably pull an engine, automatic transmission, and transfer case as a unit, which even with a modern, lightweight engine and trans case could weigh over 1000# all up. like Bob says, you don't want to find out that you underbuilt the hard way.

nate

[aemeijers]

Agreed. Stuff That Can Kill You is not the place to cut corners. Used engine lifts are not that hard to find or expensive, compared to the doctor bills if you drop it on your foot, or the funeral bills if you drop it on your head or chest.

aem sends...

[SteveB]

I would not lift anything that heavy with wood. I know it has been done, and is currently done. However, there is a safety factor here, and the failures are catastrophic.

OSHA rules forbid lifting ANYTHING with rope in their rigging regulations. In the field, it is done ALL THE TIME, and done safely by people who know rope, knots, practices. Timber hitch is a common example. Works better and safer than a chain or sling, but they don't want you to use it.

If the wooden beam is all you have to work with, put two vertical support members to help distribute the load and make it a little safer.

Steve

[DT]

Even then you can never tell. I have several 70' oak trees and one had a nearly horizontal branch up about 20 feet. The branch was a good 10" thick. Many times I pondered how I could get some ropes up there for a swing for the grandkids. One hot summer about 3 years ago, I was walking in the back yard and heard a tremendous splitting noise, and the entire branch hit the ground with a crash.

[Oren]

Okay. Never hang your engines from an ole oak tree. Pick young ones..

You might need a 14 -16 " branch. :)

[SteveB]

I don't see where you applied Murphy's Law in your equation.

Steve

[SteveB]

Should and probably. Two words I hate.

Steve

["Blattus Slaf]

I would glue and bolt together 2 or 3 2 x 8's if I couldn't get an I beam.

[Oren]

Thanks!

I never knew a Chrysler M4 tank engine came in at 5,244#s

[Oren]

A better question, is will it weaken over repeated storage, disassembly. and assembly?

Can you post a photo link of the space you intend to work on this racecar?

[ds549]

i dont know about wood, but i was allways told to have double the lifting capacity for safteys sake.lucas

[Clot]

I've deleted the previous posts, hence posting here. The way to go for me is an hydraulic lift on a mobile frame. I bought one probably 25 yrs ago that has lifted out and in many separate and combined units in safety. At the time, it costed me about $200 so more now but not that much and worth it!

[big e lewis]

I don't have a way to post pics, but my garage is 26' wide, 38' deep,

12' tall ceiling. The front rollup door is 16' wide, and 10' tall. I have an apron in front of the garage 25' out, the full width of the garage. ( the apron and the garage floor are concrete ) I thought this setup could be used inside during bad weather, and rolled outside, or near the door on nice days when I want to work in the fresh air. Big E