And now that he's been shown to be wrong, he's back peddling, trying desperately to look like he's still correct. Wait for it, we'll soon see the be-all, end-all answer of "BECAUSE! That's why!"
It was probably about 5 feet long. I don't remember having any difficulty getting the two romex to go in either. And they were not brand new, perfectly flat either. Both were re-use of the existing.
at_particular_size_ of
duit" -- which is
For that matter you can make an air conditioner that runs on water instead of Freon if you made the pipes about a foot in diameter. It would work but wouldn?t be practical.
NO, NO, NO. Do not add two j-boxes. add one 4" sq box at top of EMT. You will need to pull the wire back out of the outlet box anyway to add on the box. Now cut and strip the old wire so you have 6" inside the box, this wire is now too short to make it back down the the oulet. Use 2 new runs of 14-2NM to go to the old box and to the new box for your light.
Remove 333 to reply. Randy
Pull the existing romex out of the outlet box and conduit and route it to your new light fixture location.
Run a new piece of romex from your new light fixture to the old receptacle.
1" PVC might be easier to handle and install but I don't know about the capacity. It's been a while since I installed any and I often used calipers to compare the inside of different types of conduit when planning a job. Scrap pieces of conduit and wire come in handy when you want to do a practical measure of what you're installing especially when it's signal or network cables that may not appear in any tables. Any of the phone system or computer network installations I've done have 3/4" EMT run to every phone or network outlet inside any wall but the wires are not carrying any significant power. It makes it easier to install the wires, besides, I'm lazy. ^_^
TDD
Well, duh. . . , I should have thought of that. Thanks. That's a good idea.
Also a good idea! With the setup that I have there now, that's would be the easiest thing for me to do. Thanks.
Oops, "Jake29" = "TomR" (me, the OP).
I accidentally posted from a different account that has a different identity associated with it.
Oops, "Jake29" = "TomR" (me, the OP).
I accidentally posted from a different account that has a different identity associated with it.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:70136510-9282-4908-bccb-3adbdce953d9 @googlegroups.com:
made the pipes about a foot in diameter. It would work but wouldnt be practical.
What in the world does that have to do with whether NM is permitted inside conduit or not?
Perhaps you should sober up before you post again.
If you're worried about protecting the wire and it's in a fairly dry location, have you considered MC cable? It's a lot easier to install than conduit and the wire is inside the metal cladding. You don't have to buy a whole roll and you can probably get the length you need cut at many hardware stores or even one of the Lowe's/Depot stores. You don't have to buy a Roto-Split tool for a few connections but there are easy to use one screw connectors having an integral insulated bushings used to install the cable into the conduit boxes. ^_^
TDD
*I would install a round box in the ceiling area and pull the existing Rome x up from the sump pump outlet and bring it into the round box on the ceili ng. Then run a new Romex down from the round box into the sump pump outlet box. Pig tail the pull chain light so that the load is not feeding though the pull chain socket.
There should be a connector at the top of the EMT to prevent pullout and to act as a bushing. In this case you need a 1/2" EMT to Romex changeover co nnector.
replying to TomR, Radon50315 wrote: Why not use a lighting box and feed off the upstream end. Add new wire to make up for lost length to the receptacle. I mean, that seems like the least complicated solution. So what if it's a pull chain light. Light base wires like a receptacle, receives power and doesn't interrupt downstream power if pull chain light is on or off.
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