I have several electrical questions:
1. Is it allowable to connect 12 gauge wire to a 15amp breaker in the
service panel ?
2. How many half height single pole breakers are allowed in the main
panel rated for 200amp ?
3. I noticed something very interesting in a 3-way switch arrangement
in my home. To power a receptacle, they grabbed an unswitched feed
from the light fixture by connecting a black wire to both travelers in
the box. Since there is always power on exactly one of them, this
seems to work. Is this allowable ?
4. Is it ok to wire more than 4 receptacles downstream from a GFCI
Sure, but you only run 15a through it. Sometimes you are required to use
#12 to avoid voltage drop.
As many as you want. However, it will obviously still be good for just
As long as the neutral runs with it, I don't see why not. Someone could
object that it violates a basic requirement that devices only be used for
the purpose they were intended, but I can't see why this would be unsafe;
assuming it is done reasonably.
Obviously you have to beware that you don't overload the circuit, but aside
from that it is fine.
Just beware that long circuit may be subject to problems and those problems
can be hard to find.
My house had one GFCI breaker, and they put 4 bathrooms and 3 outdoor
outlets on it. When one outdoor outlet went bad and created a ground fault
it was a real trip to find the problem; especially since I didn't even know
it was on the breaker.
On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 19:01:14 GMT, email@example.com (Doug Miller)
Think about it. You have a 3-way switch in the house to control a
light at the garage. You also have a receptacle in the garage. (the
other 3 way is at the garage) You can have the light and receptacle
work with 3 wires.
You can not have that work if you switch the hot.
If it is so stupid, then you figure it out.
I know you will say....why not use 4 wires?
I agree. That is better, but I have seen people use 2 wires to go to
3-way swithches and use the bare as a traveler.
The standard way to do this would run 4 wires (plus ground) to the
garage: neutral, unswitched hot, and 2 alternately-switch hots from the
3-way switch. But it takes 4 wires. Without the hot that bypasses the
3-way switch in the house, you don't have an unswitched hot for the
receptacle (unless you use something like a relay to always feed the
receptacle from the hot one of the two switched wires, which has other
The system being described feeds the garage hot, neutral, and a traveler
that is switched between hot and neutral. So feeding the outlet is no
problem, but you can end up with both bulb contacts hot when the lamp is
On Mar 6, 6:22 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org (Dave Martindale) wrote:
You said it much better than I could have.
What I meant to add was the fact that it puts a switch in the neutral
connection is what makes it against the code.
It puts the light in series with the common points of the switches and
connects each traveler to the hot and neutral.
If you erase the red line back to the connection points in the drawing
that RMB posted it makes it more clear to see.
BTW that is exactly what I was talking about, but it is still in left
field as the travelers of the switch are never connected together.
Which is what the OP claims.
A true California three way switches both so the light is off when connected
hots or two neutrals. (the hots and neutrals are connected to the 3 way switch
terminals-the commons of each switch run to the light socket).
Just got home from work. I haven't checked all the posts but it looks like
have posted a diagram before I could. From the way it's wired (single wire
each switch to the fixture), I'd guess it originated with knob&tube..
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