Wow, interesting! Yes, like that! -- except maybe a duplex receptacle
instead of a "quad".
I found this info on the one you posted:
SPECIFICATION GRADE QUAD RECEPTACLE, 415W , Pass & Seymour
Derby Day wrote:
I haven't. My hedge trimmer doesn't have it's own cord, just a plug built
into a recessed area of the handle. The socket end of an extension cord
connects directly to that plug and is held in by a molded hook.
Now ask me about cutting the *extension cord* with my hedge trimmer
I have the same type of trimmer, and several various length extension cords
to use depending on how far from the house I have to go. I just checked,
at least one of my 5 extension cords does not have a band of tape where I n
icked/cut it. Of course, that is over 40+ years of use so I guess it is no
t too bad.
On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 12:13:49 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
ds to use depending on how far from the house I have to go. I just checked
, at least one of my 5 extension cords does not have a band of tape where I
nicked/cut it. Of course, that is over 40+ years of use so I guess it is
not too bad.
Several of my extension cords are not as long as when I bought them.
On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 3:19:26 PM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
ords to use depending on how far from the house I have to go. I just check
ed, at least one of my 5 extension cords does not have a band of tape where
I nicked/cut it. Of course, that is over 40+ years of use so I guess it i
s not too bad.
Many years ago my (then) teenage son got hired by a well-to-do family
friend to help him clean out his garage. When I went to pick him I saw
a 50' 12g extension cord - on a reel - on top of the trash pile. It
looked almost brand new, so I grabbed it and tossed it in the car.
When I got home I found that the cord had been cut about 6' from one
end. It was held together just by a piece of the outer jacket.
I bought a plug and socket and turned it into a 6' cord and a 44' cord.
It's 15 years later and I still use both of them. I remember explaining
to my son what happens when you have more money than you know what to
8:26 PM (1 hour ago)
On 10/3/2016 9:27 AM, TimR wrote:
Define cut. Clear through? Nope, never did that. Lets not get into
details such as cutting through the insulation and other meaningless
You don't have to cut clean thru to have a problem, just severing one of th
e two/three conductors will stop things pretty effectively. I have been k
nown to repair that type of failure by inserting a bare copper wire a coupl
e of inches long into the two cut ends to reestablish conductivity for that
conductor, and then taping over the whole thing. That works fine as long
as the insulation over the unsevered conductor(s) is/are intact, and the co
rd is not flexed too much.
I have two switched outlets. One has ground pin down with the switch on
top. Left is off, right is on.
The other is horizontal. The switch is on the left, outlet on the right
so ground pin is to the right. Down is off, up is on.
The outlet for my washing machine was installed when my house was
renovated 15 years ago. The ground pin was up, but the power cord
plugged in "upside down". I eventually got tired of looking at the cord
folding over and rotated the outlet.
All of the other outlets were installed with the ground pin down. This
includes the separately switched garbage disposal outlet under the sink.
Every 120V major appliance (refrigerator, air conditioner, etc) I've
seen has had a plug designed for the ground pin on the bottom.
Counter-top kitchen appliances with grounds (like microwave ovens)
usually have a straight plug.
To me, the whole ground on top thing smacks of safety theater. Exposed
prongs are a safety hazard no matter what the plug's orientation.
Putting the ground on top just makes is slightly harder to insert a plug
into the outlet.
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