New polebarn, I will be putting in insulation in roof and walls for
inside heating for Michigan winters. Surprisingly, the cost is about the
same for either locally. I would prefer OSB on the walls, to make it
easier to build shelves, ect onto. Is this a problem, or is there a
reason to use drywall? Thanks, Earl
You are then creating a pocket of space that will store
moisture and therefore create the perfect environment for mold
and decay. It is against code to encapsulate a wall that way
here. It could be a regional thing, I don't know.
If you MUST use faced insulation in this area, then you MUST
cut slices in the paper to ventilate the secondary vapor barrier.
I will give you an excerpt from this site:
In mixed climates (not fitting either of the above
definitions), the vapor retarder should be placed to protect
against the more serious condensation condition, summer or
winter. If in a mixed climate the winter indoor relative
humidity is kept below 35 percent, a vapor retarder at the
interior side of the insulation is usually not required, and
an exterior vapor retarder strategy is most effective. Where
winter interior humidity is not controlled or if a humidifier
is used, an interior vapor retarder is most useful. Vapor
retarders should never be placed on both sides of a wall.
Where a vapor retarder is employed, the opposite wall surface
must provide a permeable surface to allow drying to occur.
Thus, in hot, humid, cooling climates, where a vapor retarder
is employed at the exterior, the interior wall surfaces should
be permeable. No vapor retarder paints, kraft-faced
insulation, or vinyl wall coverings should be used.
Conversely, in northern heating climates, with interior vapor
retarders, the exterior wall coverings should be vapor permeable.
And in cold climates, we use 6 mil poly, caulked to the floor plywood,
with all electrical outlets and attic bypasses etc caulked and
sealed. Seams taped or caulked. This is required by code. Our local
inspectors would never let kraft paper pass in any case. As Robert
says, the exterior is covered with felt or building paper.
Regarding the OSB in lieu of drywall, I'll point out that OSB can be
used as a thermal barrier covering foam insulation in a heated
crawlspace. I suspect that codes would allow it in a detached shop,
though I am no code expert.
It is supposed to be. However, in the instance of the south,
our building codes consider it to be a vapor retardant and
don't allow the use of an interior and exterior vapor
retardant. If you use felt on the exterior, then you can use
faced insulation here. If you use Tyvek, you cannot have a
faced insulation on the interior.
Believe me when I tell you that I have been red tagged for
faced insulation with housewrap. All I had to do was cut the
paper to get a pass on the insulation inspection (energy
On Aug 6, 10:39 pm, email@example.com (big e lewis) wrote:
We're in Michigan, and we used OSB instead of drywall in our
fully detached "garage" (which is in use as a woodshop for my
husband). We had a variety of reasons, including giving the
space more character, having somewhat greater resistance to
damage, and being able to get by without mudding. We have
a good relationship with the building inspector, and we talked it
over with him before buying the OSB.
You'll still want to hang your shelves from the studs, I should think,
so the OSB and drywall are similar from that perspective.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.