On Wed 08 Oct 2008 08:15:36p, TKM told us...
I had some of these years ago, but I don't know which type. The only problem I had was that by the time the bulb eventually did burn out, the little button was also no good...would not work with another bulb.
The light was a bit dimmer, but that was one of things I wanted. I never noticed if the socket was hotter with the button.
I'm aware of that. In the TV repair business we used something called a glowbar or globar, it was used in the picture tube degaussing circuit often in pairs, one with a PTC the other NTC. I have hard wired thermistors in series with lamp sockets in the past and a regular light bulb seemed to last forever. I really don't like putting things in the socket itself because of, as you pointed, the heat. You can also buy industrial light bulbs that are rated for 130 volts. The light output will be a little lower than a household bulb but the lamps will last much longer.
TDD
It gets a little worse than that! That 2/3 light reduction is accompanied by a power reduction of not 50%, but more like 41-42% because the cooler filament has reduced resistance.
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
Hmm, I wonder what temperature the carbon filament in one of those 100+ year light bulbs is running at?
Carbon filament?
The usual run-of-the-mill carbon filament 50 watt 120V incandescent had a color temp. of 2080 K (I only found one source to cite) and an actual temperature very close to the color temperature.
A carbon filament lamp with extraordinary life would have to have an even lower temperature - and very low efficiency. A blackbody radiator at
2080 K has an overall luminous efficacy of 2.2 lumens/watt.- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
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