I was installing a new $30 ceremic circular ignitor on my York furnace. Un
fortunately, I damaged it during installation. Is there a way to fix this?
Would putting it in a metalic housing (i.e. bolt) complete the connection
? I was thinking of mixing plaster with copper shavings to form a paste to
repair. I see this listed in the epoxy paste, but think that epoxy will n
ot tolerate the heat.
I agree, this cant be repaired. We all screw up at times, when we do
home and auto repairs. It can be costly, but life is not perfect!
This reminds me of when I put a new $45 serpentine belt on my car. Less
than 10 miles down the road, it broke again, because the idler pulley
was defective. But I never noticed the bad pulley the first time I
replaced the belt. I learned quickly to ALWAYS check those pulleys in
the future. Several hours later, after getting someone to bring me parts
along the side of the road, I fixed it on the spot. That was a cost of
another $45 plus around $35 for the pulley, and I owed my friend a favor
and some fuel money for helping. But it could have been worse, had I
needed a tow truck and an auto repair shop to do the repairs.
Grin and bear it!
On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 00:10:57 -0600, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I put a new water pump belt on my 2.5L Lebaron, and I only got 1/10th
of a mile before it burned up. I didn't check if the water pump was
frozen or not.
But it was convenient. I was still in the parking lot across the
Another story. I put an ammeter in my 84 Lebaron and taped the
leads to the transmission lines. After about 5 years, something
shorted and the car ground to a stop at 11PM, in the rain, on an
overpass over an xway. As I was starting to fix it, someone drove
up, parked behind me, turned on his flashers, offered me tools. (I
ended up cutting and stripping the wires to the ammeter where one had
shorted under the car, and twisting them together.) The guy had big
scars on his face from a traffic accident.
Five or 10 years later, and eight miles from the first location, in
the middle of the day, i bought and installed and tried to adjust new
points and condenser at the same auto parts store and had only gone
200 feet when the car was giving me trouble, and the same guy pulled
up behind me, again offering to help. He helped me push the car into
another parking lot. By this time, his scars were much less bad (but
if he hadn't had any, I might not have recognized him.) I walked
back to Pep Boys and bought a new distributor, and that fixed it.
On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 02:29:40 -0600, email@example.com wrote:
For sure. He must have been right behind me the second time, and
the first time, I was there for a few minutes but only 5 or 10 cars
had gone by. I was lying on the wet pavement with my arm under the
car, after setting up a reflective triangle, but I was happier to have
his whole car behind me.
No, I was still using the original distributor. I was careful about
position and the new one went in in about 5 minutes, plus 5 minutes
for the wires.
If you have ball joints, you shouldn't go to grocery stores.
Not sure what you call it, on a full-size car, no rack and pinion,
that's opposite the steering box, the Pittman arm?, on the right, that
holds the steering linkage half way between the steering box and the
wheel? Anyhow, in Soho NYC one day, on Greene St. I had just pulled
away from the curb when the car slowed a lot. I looked and the left
wheel faced left and the right wheel faced right! The two bolts that
held that 1 foot rod to the frame had ripped through the frame. Sort
of hard to believe. Probably a '67 Pontiac Catalina.
It was 10 to 5 or 10 to 6, and I ran as fast as I could down to Canal
St. hoping I'd turn the right direction, left or right, to find the
one hardware store in that area. I wasn't used to knowing sizes
when I looked at it, and I wasn't even sure I'd taken the time to
understand the problem, but I got there just before it closed, bought
two big bolts, nuts, washers, and lock washers, and walked back to the
car, jacked it up and bolted the thing back in place. It took 60 to
90 minutes altoghether, and that part never gave me any more trouble.
It was rush hour and busy even on this side street, but the cars had
gotten around me.
On 1/5/2016 1:10 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yes, truly. The price of education. The one time I replaced
a serpentine belt (which went bad in a week) turns out the
AC compressor bracket was cracked, and the compressor was
not lined up correctly.
Some months ago, I replaced a serpentine idler pulley which
was making a terrible whining noise. Only to find out the
power steering fluid was full of junk, and that was making
You are fortunate to have a friend to bring you parts.
PC-70 is good to at least 212^. I didn't have a way to measure higher
than that. How hot do you think it gets where the igniter is, which
is under the flame iiuc. If the two parts are kept separate,
they'll be good as new at least 20 years later.
ignitor on my York furnace. Unfortunately, I
damaged it during installation. Is there a
way to fix this? Would putting it in a metalic
housing (i.e. bolt) complete the connection?
I was thinking of mixing plaster with copper
shavings to form a paste to repair. I see this
listed in the epoxy paste, but think that epoxy
will not tolerate the heat.
You're working with high temps, and lots of
electrical current. And you rely on that
igniter to keep you warm in the winter.
I'd not want to mess aound with patch jobs.
I'd suggest to go buy another one, and be
more gentle. The price of experience.
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