CRABGRASS has taken over

Sep 09, 2007 29 Replies

Not at all trying to be a wisea** here tnom, but are you saying that what survives will be the drought tolerant grasses? If you have an inside line on this I'd be interested so that I can seed those bare areas with it. Of course, I could always Google that for some more info. TIA, Chuck

Do you know the best seed rate on overseeding? ( Pounds per sq yd) Thanks for the help!

Well, pretty much by definition... :)

There are many levels of "drought tolerant". Some of the newer hybrid fescues and bluegrasses are less water-demanding than older traditional varieties. For really drought-resistant varieties there are things like buffalo grass. What would be appropriate in wherever you are is depending on where you are (DOH! :) ) and soil types, etc. Your local county extension agent or state agricultural school is probably the best starting place for local recommendations.

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There are individual varieties or blends that are composed of varities that are more drought tolerant. Check websites of individual suppliers. I think Lofts has a summer stress blend. Or check seedland.com for different grass seeds and characteristics.

Depends entirely on the type of seed. For example, bluegrass goes down at a much lower rate than tall fescue, because the seeds are smaller. The rate for overseeding is about 1/2 the rate for establishing a new lawn.

I can tell from the appearance of the lawn. Crabgrass likes barren soil, so I suspect a heavy overseeding is recommended. A 50# bag for a half or a quarter acre is about right (you can do the math). Actually, it's hard to over do it.

This is not a good time to apply herbicides. Overseed your lawn now to reduce weeds/crabgrass next year. Do not use herbicides within 90 days of seeding.

So, you'd put down 50# of bluegrass or 50# of tall fescue on the same area? Ever read a seed bag?

In general, not true. There are many weeds that continue to grow all fall even into winter and continue to make the lawn a mess and they will still be there stronger than ever come Spring. Nothing wrong with treating weeds now, it isn't even Fall yet. And while most herbicides specify a min period until you can seed, it's typically around 30 days or so, not 90. Most effective is to use spot treatment, rather than a weed/feed type product.

Very true...particularly the dandy-lions are good to work on right now as they're in the process of taking up nutrients for the winter so herbicide effectiveness is good (assuming they're not heavily drought-stressed, they do need to be actively growing for best effectiveness)....

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