The concrete deck around the pool has settled and caused fine cracks in the deck. I read about repairing them with something like a caulking gun only it holds cement ... have Googled for it on Home Depot site and can't find it. Does anyone know what the name is so I will know what to ask for.
The tile (bullnose) has cracked and started coming apart in two places. The pool was installed 17 years ago and the tile I have been able to find doesn't match in style .... my tile has a more rounded edge. I don't want to have to replace the whole thing for just those two tiles ... is there someplace I might find old style bullnose tile? The color I need is bone and I did find almost exact shade at Lowe's ... it was same size (3x6) but not as thick. And it was less curved at the top ... just wondering if there is anything I can do to avoid tearing out all the tile. Several other pieces are cracked but not showing like these two pieces with large cracks. I am thinking about trying to patch them....if anyone knows how.
********* Finding the right color is not the problem. The shape of the tile is different from what is being sold today. I think I am going to try and patch it with the piece that fell off ....if I can get it to adhere to the side. I'm leaning toward using epoxy to glue the broken piece back on. Then fill the rest of the space with cement. Not sure it will work.
I will only comment on the repair of the concrete cracks. What you choose to do about the cracks depends on the size of the cracks & whether the decking is still moving.
I was involved in rehab of a pool deck and the gap between the decking and the pool coping.
The gap between the deck & the coping (as much as 3/4" in some places) was filled with an elastomeric compound similar to Sikaflex Self- leveling Sealant. I've used Sikaflex Self-leveling Sealant with good success. The spec sheet recommends a max depth of 1/2" and width of 1/2" but I've exceeded both dimensions (as deep as 3/4" and as wide as 3/4") with no ill effects. I did some trial applications on a large / deep crack with "no sound bottom". The sealant kept leaking out & I kept filling.. eventually the crack filled and the material cured, fast forward 5 years and the material is still sound & looks great. The cracks are stilled sealed & the material still adhered.
The sealant winds up matching normal grey concrete quite well after it "gets dirty" and collects the dirt and dust from the concrete surface over several weeks.
The only drawback is that the wet sealant "runs" if the concrete surface slope is too great and the wet sealant "disappears" if the crack bottom is not sealed and has escape routes for the sealant.
Back on the rehab job, against my suggestion a more or less rigid epoxy compound was used to seal the deck cracks.....the color match was not great but worse (over time) the epoxy debonded from the concrete, the cracks re-opened slightly with continued deck movement. All in all the epoxy repair of the cracks was less than ideal. Bad color match and cracks returned....so oyu now have spidery repair re- cracked cracks. Honestly the repaired concrete after a couple years looked no better and perhaps worse than no repair. :(
Tile colors, shapes and styles come and go like women's fashion. What is in style and available this year may not be available next year, or the manufacturer may not be in business. Matching 17 year old tile is probably a lost cause, this is why anyone that does tiling or has tiling done should keep a box of every type of tile that is used as spares for repairs. Most contractors don't leave extras, and most uneducated homeowners don't want to store the tiles, just-in-case. But spare tiles have helped me out several tiles as repairs or modifications were needed requiring the tiles to be patched.
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