Changed one light bulb - now both light bulbs dont work

Hi,

I have a ceiling fixture that has two bulbs in it. One went out. I replaced it the one that went out, and it worked. I convinced hubby to change the o ther one as well as I am sure it will go out soon. He did, and then both di dnt work. We did a whole series of changing of the lightbulbs, and it appea rs the lights will only turn on if the original working bulb is in its orig inal spot, and a new one installed. If there is no bulb in the original wor k position but a new bulb in the non-working position, no light will turn o n. If there is only a new bulb in the new position or old position, it wont work. Only one configuration seems to work.

Can someone explain? I am not sure if it makes a difference, but the origin al bulbs were incandescent, and the new bulbs purchased are the energy-save r halogen.

I can't make sense of it, but I am sure there is a mathematical reason for it.

Thanks for helping.

Reply to
Naomi Cezana
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Do the bulbs shine at their full expected brightness? (What happens if two CFLs are connected in series?)

If they do it might be that I had an exorcism at my house a couple nights ago. It worked, but the evil spirits had to go somewhere. Maybe they went to your place.

Reply to
micky

I can't make sense of it either. Is this a low voltage fixture? Does it use a regular mechanical/electrical wall switch or some kind of electronic switching device? I'm sure we can answer your question but need more details.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Hi Nate,

It is my regular ceiling fixture that has a 60W limit. It is just a regular light switch on the wall...

Reply to
Naomi Cezana

It might be a mechanical problem. Are the two bulbs mounted back to back ? If so cut off the power and try bending the tab at the bottom of the socket up a little.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

Even though the Halogens are energy savings, they may still require a higher load to start them. If your fixture is a 60w limit, that limit could be peaking above that with the halogens. Remember, most lighting, appliances and other electrical device require a higher voltage at start up. I don't know if this is your problem, but it's a possibility. Try using CFLs instead of halogens. You can get 100w output using a 23w CFL.

Reply to
Meanie

if the two sockets are wired in series either on purpose or by mistake, then they might work the way you describe.

Try installing 2 new OLD type incandescent bulbs and see if that works and see if they are not as bright as normal. This would indicate they are wired in series.

Is there a bright / dim switch setting ?

If your sockets are wired in series, then do not use CFLs in there.

Mark

Reply to
makolber

My first thought too, but if that were true, one bulb blowing would cause the other to go out.

This sounds more plausible. :)

Reply to
Metspitzer

Naomi,

Ralph has given you the answer. It's an easy fix.

Dave M.

Reply to
David L. Martel

Will try ralphs suggestion tonight.

can not use CFL's in fitting...

Reply to
Naomi Cezana

thanks Dave

Reply to
Naomi Cezana

It has to be something mechanical. To prove that. try each halogen bulb in a single socket light fixture. THey should each light up individually. A s an earlier poster ssaid, turn power completely off, and look at the cente r tab at the bottom of each socket, That tab should stick uip enough to co ntact the center bottom of each buld. See if moving the tab in onw wocket causes any motion of the center tab in the other socket. There should not be any motion if the two tabs are not connected mechanically. I'd bet my pension that the two tabs are somehow connected physically, and that is why you are having the interesting problems you are having.

Reply to
hrhofmann

I have a ceiling fixture that has two bulbs in it. One went out. I replaced it the one that went out, and it worked. I convinced hubby to change the other one as well as I am sure it will go out soon. He did, and then both didnt work. We did a whole series of changing of the lightbulbs, and it appears the lights will only turn on if the original working bulb is in its original spot, and a new one installed. If there is no bulb in the original work position but a new bulb in the non-working position, no light will turn on. If there is only a new bulb in the new position or old position, it wont work. Only one configuration seems to work.

Can someone explain? I am not sure if it makes a difference, but the original bulbs were incandescent, and the new bulbs purchased are the energy-saver halogen.

I can't make sense of it, but I am sure there is a mathematical reason for it.

Thanks for helping.

}}

My first guess is there is a mechanical problem in the fixture that is pressured by the bulb into working. Remove the pressure and the connection to the other bulb failes.

Reply to
NotMe

So what? Many fixtures with glass around the light bulbs are rated

60W so that they won't get too hot (and damage the bakelite/plastic or conceivably start a fire) but that doesn't keep the bulb from drawing whatever it needs, up to 150 watts or more.

OTOH, if you use 100W bulbs in a fixture like that, after a few years, the plastic parts of the fixture will crumble. If I'd taken the glass globes off the bulbs, I could have run 100 watts forever, because the rating assumes the glass is in place.

Right. So it can use 150 at start up for a few seconds and then go down to 60 or below and the few seconds it used more than 60 will have practically no effect on how hot it gets inside the glass.

Reply to
micky

Sounds reasonable to me.

Reply to
micky

This mechanical problem can often be the shell contact rivets in the base of the device. If an aluminum shell, tighten rivets with a bit of electrical anti corrode grease wiped into shell/rivet junction first. If brass shell, solder rivets. Last resort check hardware store for replacement socket.

Reply to
Mr.E

Upon reflection that seems to be the most likely solution - that, or a loose connection from a pair of wires to the base of one of the sockets (which I haven't ever actually seen - usually the sockets are wired independently.)

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel
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Voltage? How would that work?

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Reply to
sam E

Most?

That's the purpose of the ballast.

Reply to
krw

I agree the most likely explanation is the tab on the bottom of the socket being flattened. Evidence for that is it started happening after the husba nd changed the bulbs. Bulbs should be screwed in until they light and then an additional 1/8th turn. Many people use 1/4 or 1/2 turn and flatten the tab. Then trying to make contact they screw the bulb in even tighter and damage the bulb.

Less likely explanations, but I've seen them happen: using an E26 bulb in an E27 socket or vice versa; twisting the socket enough to loosen the conne ction (especially on ceiling fans).

Reply to
TimR

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