That usually depends on the location of the tree. In the middle of the
forest, just cut and drop. The tree in front of my hose could either go
into the house or the wires on the street. That came down in sections.
So both of you say the same thing. How do you each climb a tall tree
to cut it down in sections? I have a 40 foot pine in my front yard
that seems to have died, and it could hit my house or my n'bor's if it
fell wrong. If not that might hit his fence (and will very likely hit
my fence, but that's not a problem becuase I replace parts of that all
Did you see my post about finding it easier to write checks at times?
That is how I took my tree down. $300
There is climbing equipment that young agile folks can use. He threw a
weight tied to a string over a branch. Then he pulled a rope with it.
Then he tied himself to the rig and "walked" up the tree with spikes
strapped to his legs. That was a skinny guy in his 30s. Older fat guys
use a bucket truck.
Sometimes they get smart if they live long enough. I remember when I
was about 10 a man talked me into strapping on some tree climbing spikes
and going up a tree that was about 3 feet or more across at the bottom.
No rope or any other thing, Just walked up the tree as he was telling
me how to do it. Not bad going up, but I did not like comming down. I
was probably 50 feet up in the tree when I started down. Last time I
tried climbing a tree with spikes on.
Now while I am in good helth at 66 I don't go up extension ladders even
though I have one that is about a 22 footer. Not afraid of heights, but
from the time I was about 22 and went up the first one, I could not help
but think it would come out from under me. Just to show that I am not
afraid of heights if I believe in what I am standing on, I did put up a
60 foot ham radio tower by doing all the tower work myself about 10
years ago. I have been up it a few times after that.
I googled about powder and it said it took years, and I'd have to keep
applying powder every 2 weeks and removing wood, and at my age, I
don't want to wait years, so guess I'll pay, but it's interesting that
they want as much to remove the stump as to remove the tree. It
probably takes more time.
OTOH, this page says it only takes "several weeks"
That seems to be even if you don't use his final step, letting
kerosene soak in for a couple weeks and then burning.
But the first one says "Often the process of decay can take several
Quite a difference.
Renting a stump grinder is $109.00 4-Hour (Minimum) or $155.00
Per Day, so that's not worth it if they want 150 to 225, although they
didn't say how deep they grind.
As I understand it, dirt and sand and rocks
are in roots (the roots grow around the rocks).
The roots tend to really destry any kind of
mechanism. Saws go dull, stump grinders need
a lot of power and carbide teeth, which teeth
need to be replaced often.
One time I tried to take out a small (about five
inch diameter) tree with a sawzall. Harbor Freight
white blades don't last more than a minute or two.
On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 08:37:18 -0400, Stormin Mormon
I certainly have a lot of rocks. I find them every time I dig a hole.
Part of my yard, maybe not where the tree is, is landfill. Instead of
the way it was, the ground gradually sloping toward the stream, it's
mostly level, and just past my yard there's a 6' "cliff" into the
high-water stream bed. I think it was the builder's own landfill
and it came with lots of rocks.
On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 08:37:18 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I usually dig until the exposed roots are small enough to be cut with a
chisel and a masonry mallet. You do need to sharpen the chisel to a knife
edge, and re-sharpen if the roots have any embedded rocks.
You might also use an axe head with a sledge hammer for the roots near the
surface where you have enough room to really swing. The biggest problem
with this method is removing the axe head after you have completed the cut,
because it is still firmly stuck (rooted?) between the two pieces of wood.
I was probably more agile when I was younger, or at least when I was
I keep losing my balance now, but maybe that's because I've been
walking on very uneven surfaces. It must be because it doesn't
happen when I walk on flat surfaces, except when there is a twinge
from one hip.
And little wounds on my skin never fully go away anymore. I said
something to the doctor about not "healing" and he perked up, but in
practice it was a bad choice of words and when I explained, he almost
scoffed at me. His eyebrows scoffed at me. There's a spot on my
wrist, and on my upper arm that just don't turn back to perfect flat
skin like every wound used to. And one below my knee, and a spot on
my nose t hat isn't really visible if I don't mess with it, but I can
go six months without touching it, and it still isn't gone. This is
definitely because I'm 69, isn't it?
And I don't know for sure if bones would knit in six weeks like they
used to. My aunt broker hip when she was 90 years old, and she
healed in 6 weeks, and was walking around normally again, but I
gather that is unusual for women -- don't know about men. She lived
I've had good success with Nelson's tea tree
cream. One grocery near me had it, but no longer.
Can be had through Ebay. I've not checked Amazon.
A tiny bit of tea tree cream on a bandage over
the wound, and I heal much faster.
On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 08:39:41 -0400, Stormin Mormon
Thanks. By most standards, I've healed. There's no soreness,
redness, nothing seeping out. It just doesn't feel just like the
surrounding skin (maybe somehow flat but not soft), and in some cases
the the skin is higher than next to it. Is it still worth using?
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