I am considering putting down a ceramic floor in a kitchen and maybe a
bathroom. I can use some advice!
Can I put ceramic over an existing linoleum floor? Do I need a cutter for
the ceramic, can I rent one somewhere, is ceramic difficult to cut. An
opinion on how difficult it is for a female with little muscle power to put
down a ceramic floor.
I tend to bite off more than I should thus, I am trying to make a reasonable
decision to do the floor or not.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
You can lay it on lino.( The lino mut be good ) But I would only do that
if it's on a slab not a raised floor. I have layed tile on lino never had a
problem . If you have a wood floor you have to remove the Lino and
undelalment. Then you install backer board, the backer board is set in
thinset then nailed some people use screws. Then your ready to tile. The
best tool is a wet saw, it just makes things easier. You will have some
tricking cuts, I make paper paterns somtimes. The key thing is find your
starting point get your srait line establised just think it out. Some people
lay all the tile less the cut pieces then rent a saw and do the cut work
witch is one way to do it and saves $$. You might buy a book on it. Tile is
fun to do and not real complicated but experience helps. So you have to ask
your self buying tools renting tools lack of experience ? So hire it out or
get my feet wet? Only you can answer that
In the bathrom you'll probably have to remove the toilet, tile
underneath then extend the flange to adjust for the height of the
floor. Are you comfortable doing that? If not call a plumber or a
friend who knows how.
Unless you're also replacing the floor cabinets, you can tile around
them, but watch out for tiling stuff in, like a under the counter
Yes, but you'll probably put some kind of board on top before
installing the tiles. Do you know what's under the linoleum? If its
wood, screw backer boards on top of the linoleum, but if it's concrete
you should remove the linoleum and lay the tiles just over the cement.
Ask the people where you buy the tiles, they will suggest what backer
board to use and if it's needed
You could buy a wet saw for the price of renting one twice, especially
if being your first time, you're not too fast. Home Depot, Lowes etc
have models for DYIers. Or you can mark the tiles and have them cut at
the shop where you bought them. The usual suspects HomeDepot , Lowes
etc do that for free
Cutting tiles is not difficult but it's messy, with dust and mud from
the cuts flying around. Better done outside, and you have to wear
Lifting the backer boards, the bags of mortar, grout and the boxes of
tiles will probably be what takes more muscles. You can buy a mixer
tool to attach to an electric drill to mix mortar and grout , and you
should wear knee pads.
Anticipate spending hours on your knees while laying down tiles,
washing off the mortar with a sponge and grouting.
For a large living room I hired a female friend to help and soon enough
she was going faster than I was :>)
It's a lot of work over two - three days (for just one room) but also a
lot of fun. Having even a part time helper for the heavy lifting, for
example, would be a good idea.
If you're in good shape and nothing of what I said scares you, go for
Lot of good answers already. Here's a bit more, and with 30 years
exper... oh wait, that's R. Kinch's line.
Sacramento Dave covered most of it for you 'cept you CAN install
Hardibacker over top of the lino if it's atop a wood subfloor. But
whether it's a slab or wood, if the lino's loose and peeling badly, pull
it up. Any lino that is coved up onto the toe-kicks must be removed.
Existing wood base can be tiled up to, leaving a grout joint between
tile and wood. You can tile the undercounter toe-kicks or go back on
top of the tile with a wood base.
Rent a tub/wet saw from just about any tile supply house. Far easier
and more exacting to use than a snap cutter for floor tile. MK has the
smaller lightweight saws but they may not handle the bigger tile I
suggest with a single pass and w/o flipping the tiles to finish the
cuts. Not a major issue, but get the largest saw you can if you use a
larger floor tile.
I recommend tile no smaller than 12", using an 1/8" grout joint w/
The Home Depot near where I live routinely has a "Do-it-Herself"
seminar on laying ceramic tile. I would hope that most women would be
very offended by that but it doesn't appear that they are.
Hope this helps,
I would not even consider Home depot for advice, They will show you the
basics. Any home improvement show can show you. Most the advice is from
people that have there head in a dark place. You might get LUCKY and find
someone with some knowledge there, but they all sound convincing. Buy a book
the pictures will be a great help and you have a reference. The best is if
you know someone that lays tile and can ask question.
You can cut the usual ceramic tile by scoring the top with a glass
cutter, putting the tile on a 1/4" dowel (scored surface up and directly
over the dowel) and pushing down on both sides so no, you don't *have*
to have a tile cutter. But it sure makes life simpler.
Not hard to cut, wet saws with diamond blades can be rented at Home
Depot, tool rental places, etc. You can also buy a "score and snap"
cutter for around $30 at HD. They work like the glass cutter/dowel but
in a more controlled manner. Work well, easy to use. It would also be
a good idea to have an abrasive stone with which you can smooth/dull the
Laying tile doesn't require muscle, just a bit of thought. The only
muscle is in hefting/mixing bags of thinset mortar. Thought involves...
1. Where to start laying? The usual way is to find the center (in both
directions) of the room and draw two lines that divide the room into
quarters. There are two possibilities for laying...first tile with edge
on line(s) or center of first tile(s) on lines. Choose which way by dry
laying and see which results in the largest cut tile at the sides.
2. How are you going to finish up at the walls? Will the edge of the
tile be under baseboards? If so, you'll need to remove them. Do you
plan to use specially shaped tiles with a cove? Plan to lay one or more
courses up the wall? In either case, you'll have to decide on the tile
shape and quantity for those.
Once you start laying, your primary objectives are to keep the edges of
the tiles straight and parallel to each other and the surfaces all at
the same height. Starting at the previously determined point, easiest
way is to lay a few tiles in one direction in one of the room quarters,
then in the other direction in the same quarter. Keep the edges
straight by using an aluminum yardstick. Some tiles have a built in nib
that aligns them and maintains the same distance tile to tile; others
don't. For the ones that don't, you can buy little plastic crosses
that look like "+" to align the tiles. They come in various thicknesses
to maintain joints of a given width.
If you apply the mortar correctly - combing it out with a trowel with
the proper size notch - you shouldn't have much trouble keeping the tile
surfaces the same height. A beating board helps too. A "beating board"
is just a piece of 3/4 plywood maybe 2' square with a piece of short
loop rug or old towel attached to it to protect the tile surfaces. One
lays a few tiles then puts the board on top of them - overlapping any
previously laid tiles - and taps the board with a hammer or mallet to
press the new tiles to the same level.
Once everything is laid, wait at least 24 hours after the last tiles are
laid and then grout. For a floor, you will probably have joints of 1/4"
or more so you will want sanded grout in your choice of color. Dark
colors are way easier to keep looking good than light ones. Directions
for grouting are normally on the container. The only tools you'll need
are a grout float which is like a trowel but with a thick, fairly hard
rubber pad and a mortar tub or plastic dishpan (which you will also need
for laying). Both are available at HD for around $5-$6 each. You'll
also need a couple of buckets for fresh water and a couple of good, BIG
sponges (also available at HD). Some old towels will be handy too to
wipe off the grout haze.
Don't dump buckets of grout/mortar dirty water down the sink, empty them
Last step is sealing after grout has cured. Best is silicone sealer,
just wipe on then wipe off.
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Do your homework and get all the information on ceramic tile
installation on this forum. Use the forum search function and you'll be
amazed with the wealth on information on the subject.
A dark coloured tile in the kitchen doesn't show the dirt.................
A quick sweep and it looks good. Also, you might consdier putting in
underfloor electric heating. You will need an electrician to put in the
thermostat, but a heated floor is wonderful. You don't have to cover the
whole floor, just where you stand.
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