I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will bridge
an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage. On the lock
side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it in a hole in the
ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs to be attached to the
house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that side of the gate. The bottom
of this 2x4 will start six inches above the concrete walk.
I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side of
the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in concrete
and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).
Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:07:03 -0700, Walter E. wrote:
I don't know about code for this but don't trust "treated" wood today.
I'm getting some spectacular failures (rot) from treated wood less than a
The solution is to use treated wood - but - you should paint the treated
wood heavily with with copper preservative. In some places this is very
hard to get these days so you might end up buying mailorder. I won't do
any outdoor project anymore without copper coating the PT wood.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Walter , from a BTDT perspective , have someone build a frame for your
gate out of 1" x 3" 16 gauge square tube steel . Having built a gate or two
, I can guarantee that if you frame the gate with wood , it will sag . Make
sure your steel guy puts an angled piece from corner to corner . I 100%
guarantee that the steel framed gate will not sag - and the wood one will .
Your post reminded me of the screen doors in the old farm house
my parents had. The doors had a support running from hinged top side
to the latch bottom side. It was a couple small rods with a turnbuckle
in the middle. Not quite like this: http://tinyurl.com/omqsbtl
Much more like this: http://tinyurl.com/pwhja7j
The wooden farm gates seemed to all bow or sag. My dad finally
got tired of that so built some steel ones out of some old pipe he
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
I would treat the 2x4 attached to the house the same way you would do a
deck ledger board. Install washers or other spacers at each bolt to space
the board away from the siding. Then caulk the hole well when you install
the bolt. This will provide a gap between the 2x4 and your siding so water
does not get trapped where it could potentially cause rot.
Unless you plan on painting them, I would recommend treated lumber for the
2x4 and all posts.
1. For effects on future sale, ask a real estate agent.
2. In this jurisdiction, building permits offices tell taxpayers
(without charge) whether plans need alteration in order to
conform to the building code.
On Sunday, July 12, 2015 at 10:16:12 AM UTC-4, John G wrote:
I guess what to use depends partly on what wood the gate itself is made
from and if the gate is painted or not. If painted, then the look of the
wood wouldn't matter. If not, then I'd think you want all the wood to match.
So maybe that needs to be taken into account when picking the gate.
For fastening, I agree with the poster that said to do it similar to
how you'd do a ledger board for a deck, seal the screw holes, etc.
He might take some pics and visit a fence shop, ask them what they recommend.
Possible they have some easy, good solution as they must do this all the time.
Complaints from termite inspectors? Doubtful; they only look for
termites. Treated lumber is not immune from termite infestation; it
only delays it. Primary concern would be to keep structure in good
repair as far as paint, caulk, plumbing/electrical entries, grade at
least 6-8" below wood elements. State or county extension agencies
usually have good tips about preventing insect problems and the signs
that homeowners should be watchful for.
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