breaker box install question

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

And the only reason that's not a fire hazard is that with two 15A breakers on the same leg, he won't be putting any more than 30A on the neutral -- and it's a 10g wire, so that's at least marginally safe. I doubt it meets Code.

My advice to the OP still stands: hire a pro.

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Reply to
Doug Miller
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I wanted to minimize voltage drop so I used #10 to wire my garage receptacles.

Reply to
Jack

Jack wrote in news:5791690a$0$46652$c3e8da3$e074e489 @news.astraweb.com:

... which is a Code violation and potential fire hazard, unless the receptacles are rated for use with AWG 10 conductors (or unless you used AWG 12 pigtails between that and the receptacles).

The issue is that unless the receptacle was designed for AWG 10 conductors, it's not possible to properly secure one that large under the terminal screw, and it may work loose, leading to arcing and fire.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Same here! When I use #10 for branch circuits I use back wire receptacles and larger j-boxes.

Reply to
Rusty Boldt

I ran #12 when I installed a garbage disposal and would have had a heck of a time getting #10 pulled through those bends. Thicker sizes are a pain fo r an amateur to handle. Of course pros do it every day.

Here's what I'm wondering. You're in your shed working on a project late a t night. You're surrounded by disassembled pieces, some of which you'll ne ver figure out where to put if you disturb your layout, some breakable, som e sharp. You power up your saw or other tool and trip the breaker.

Do the lights die too? Are you now in the dark unable to move without trip ping over stuff? Or does just the outlet breaker trip?

Reply to
TimR

On 07/22/2016 7:51 AM, TimR wrote: ...

Solid or stranded? I almost always pull stranded for #10 and larger...

'Pends on whether you thought ahead when wiring or no... :) Ideally, there even ought to be two light circuits, too, altho for just a small shed it's overkill. Having split circuits in a multi-story house for example means you can at least find your way to the panel in the basement instead of the whole place being dark as a parallel idea...

Reply to
dpb

Who decided that?

Reply to
trader_4

And a bit of snot always helps...

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

Solid was cheaper. ! It was my first time running a new circuit, and I learned the hard way.

Reply to
TimR

I use these, rated up to #10 copper. You can easily make 6 connections each, without a hassle.

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Reply to
bob_villain

If you are using the side screw and also the 2 back wire ports, you have violated the listing. They are only listed for one or the other,

2 wires per terminal max using the back wire or one per screw.
Reply to
gfretwell

Sign me up for the violation...it makes for a compact box without wire-nuts. These are excellent construction-grade (not push-in) connectors.

Reply to
bob_villain

On 07/22/2016 10:23 AM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote: ...

Cam you provide a cite for that; I can't find any proscription against using all the provided terminal points on the device...

Reply to
dpb

Look at the instructions that come with the device

Reply to
gfretwell

I have the packaging for two 20 amp commercial spec receptacles, one Leviton and one Pass and Seymour. Neither package specs the wire size or the max number of wires attached to the device.

I'd really appreciate a manufacturers link to info listing max number of wires and max wire size.

Years ago I tried to find this info and gave up. Unless the device says otherwise, if there is an open screw head I'll use it.

Reply to
anonymous

I did, what I could find, and saw nothing saying that.

Reply to
dpb

I have vague recollection that a device wasn't allowed in-circuit with another device - e.g. a downstream recep may not be wired in parallel with an upstream recep using the device terminals, but rather the upstream device must be pigtailed.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

John G posted for all of us...

+1 As always
Reply to
Tekkie®

On 07/22/2016 1:31 PM, anonymous wrote: ...

...

The above link to this device does list the wire size(s) and type (back terminal Cu only) but like yours I see no mention of limiting the number or which connections can be used simultaneously.

I searched for the UL reference numbers to see if they would say something but had no luck on the score, either.

Certainly on duplex outlets without the rear connections it's very common to wire outlets in series using the two sets of side screws and GFCI duplex outlets are constructed specifically with a "line" and "load" side for the purpose. Simply adding the two additional rear contacts doesn't seem to me to make sense to prevent their use if convenient and as you say, I've never seen anything saying "Don't do that!".

So, I think the "one terminal, one wire" rule is Code-compliant but I don't know how to prove it w/o a lot more effort than I've time or inclination to invest.

Reply to
dpb

From the 2014 U/L white book

Single and duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with more than one set of terminals for the connection of line and neutral conductors have not been investigated to feed branch-circuit conductors connected to other outlets on a multi-outlet branch circuit, as follows: Side-wire (binding screw) terminal with its associated back-wire (.screw-actuated clamp type) terminal . Multiple conductors under a single binding screw Multiple conductors in a single back-wire hole

If these are NOT investigated, the listing does not apply so it is an unlisted use and a NEC violation.

OTOH you can use a push in and the screw.

I think the issue is that a terminal screw can only have that use. It can't be used for another purpose, like tensioning the back plate. You also run into problems that if the plate is all the way open to insert conductors, the screw may not be long enough to get a wire under it.

Using the 2 sets of terminals as a feed through has been evaluated and is legal.

Reply to
gfretwell

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