Back up sump pump drain to laundry sink

Or a flood of magnitude beyond what a pump can handle. If the water rises 2' above the generator you are SOL anyway.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski
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we had a 100 year storm, people who were home spent 2 days bailing their sumps.

altogether unnecessary....... since most homes sith well above streets, they could of put in a overflow line....

to just drain the excess water if the pump fails for any reason

Reply to
bob haller

We the taxpayers need a free ObamaBattery program.

Isn't keeping our basements dry as important as supplying urban street thugs with free communication tools?

Reply to
Bud Doobie

I think he posted what he meant, "efficacy", not "efficiency". I don't even recall seeing energy efficiency numbers posted for sump pumps.

I've never encountered an area where the municipal water system regularly breaks and is out for days and days. Might exist somewhere, where it's very unreliable, but it's the exception, not the rule. Even places with old system, eg NYC, you might have a break in one area that puts them without water for a day, but it's not a regular thing. And it would also have to happen at the same time the power is out, odds of that are extremely low.

That is an advantage, assuming you're there to do the swap.

Reply to
trader_4

No, efficacy: the ability to produce a desired or intended result.

Efficiency determines how *well* it produces that result (in units of watts per gallon moved, gallons per minute, etc.)

the ratio of the useful work performed by a machine or in a process to the total energy expended or heat taken in.

You typically don't care how "efficient" it is -- as long as it can meet your expected "water movement" needs and do so without consuming massive quantities of electricity in the process. Hard to imagine a unit sold that would fail in obvious ways (assuming you read the rating plate prior to purchase).

OTOH, it is relatively easy to encounter one that has become plugged with debris from use and is no longer EFFECTIVE.

Your problem lies in not understanding my choice of words: efficacy. Go back and reread what I wrote. Then, realize how much of what

*you* wrote doesn't belong as a reply to my comment. :>

And, who's responsibility is it to provide that level of detail? Should folks spend many posts trying to tease out every little detail from the OP's prior to offering a suggested remedy? Ever notice how INFREQUENTLY the OP's don't rejoin the conversation to say what they've done and what the results may have been?

And code may not allow water to be routed "as desired"; tying in to a sanitary sewer *or* storm sewer may be prohibited, locally. Or, those connections may require check valves, etc.

Here, water falling on your property is *your* problem. When your lot is graded, *you* have to ensure the water -- including any potential runoff -- is handled appropriately. You will often encounter "developments" that have set aside significant portions of real estate (as in, "why didn't they put yet another house on that seemingly empty lot?") as catchment basins to handle the "overflow" from the typical downpours we get during Monsoon.

[We have very few "storm sewers" so runoff runs down the STREET. This poses a hazard to drivers who are frequently swept away by this volume of water -- ~6 inches to float a car...]

Lack of funds isn't a defense against failure to comply with Code.

The short answer to your rant: if you want a customized answer for your particular circumstances, local regulatory requirements, etc. then you ask/hire a plumber.

The advice you receive via USENET (or any other similar "forum") is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it!

Reply to
Don Y

I work at a sewer treatment plant. We do not treat water. This is a common misconception. We separate solids from water period. The water discharge side of the plant is disinfected at a pittiful rate often with hypo If not using ultraviolet. Yes I understand metal separation and nitrogen removal but that should be atributed to other pollution up and down stream industrial and residential ilegal dumping yadyada. The correct answer Is that your plant may not be able to acept More millon gallon daily flow from pointless connections from users improper installations. Which is the point above. (well said by the way) Causing bypass flows directly to discharge water sources usually rivers instead of purchasing foam pipe wrap and maybe a little heat trace for those winter months. I do agree that both options for back up sump operations are verry viable. I currently use battery back up because if I need the pump to run longer that the battery can allow there is many options vehicle battery and solar charging. I like solar. But slamming someone for giving the option as a suggestion with the water system even if they would like to sell it to you is rediculous. If suggestions from suppliers and innovators are unwelcome in your life just remember you could be downstairs pumping out your water by hand.

Reply to
Sam

Which of course is treatment. There is a difference between some treatment and no treatment.

Reply to
trader_4

replying to Stormin Mormon, Kathy wrote: I have sump and still flooded because the water was coming in faster than it could pump out, record rain in small amount of time, the whole neighborhood flooded not just me, so does not mean system sucked, my systems great I have battery back up too, but I thought my system failed I went outside and sure enough sump was putting water out, just could not keep up with water flow that's how hard it rained, my mom who had never flooded in all her years at her house flooded too, first and last time EVER having water in her home, so.... but I do have another problem... My sump pump drains into my neighbor's driveway and always leave the puddle at the bottom of her driveway in the summer I can attach a hose and reroute it away, but in the winter I can't attach a discharge hose because if it freezes it'll back up this winter the water on a driveway froze and she almost fell, I don't know what to do to fix it, offered to put more gravel on her DRIVEWAY, any thoughts????

Reply to
Kathy

Typically that problem is solved by having the discharge hose/pipe installed so it's pitched downward for the entire run. Then water doesn't stay in it to freeze. Why your sump pump discharge is running into the neighbor's driveway at all is another issue. Regarding the sump pump system not sucking, it would seem to me that if it can't keep up with worst case rainfall, then it does suck. Sump pumps come in different capacities, you can have more than one too if necessary. Discharge hose might be part of the issue too, if it can't support the full pump rate. If the neighborhood actually flooded, ie a stream, pond overflowed, there was water pooled on the ground everywhere, etc then that's a different story.

Reply to
trader_4

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