Personally, I much perfer the floor jack for the use you stated. You
give up some portability, and it takes more room to store, but it's
far quicker and more convenient, you don't have to kneel down to place
it, and the jacking proceedure is easier.
But check the jack-placement points on your cars, and look at the
factory jack to see how it engages them. I've had to fabricate a
block to fit on the jack so it wouldn't crimp or crush the metal ridge
on the jacking point. It's just a 4" length of 2X4 with a slot cut in
At least they fit their vehicles well. :)
I'm no expert, but I don't think OE jacks are that crappy, at least
compared to no-name Chinese scissor jacks. The OE ones I saw were
made in the US, Canada, or Japan, one was rated for 2.25 tons (a ton
more than its car), compared to 1.5 tons for most aftermarket scissor
jacks, the OE metal was thicker, and the screw rods had smooth 90-deg.
threads instead of rough 45-deg. threads (it seemed that the Chinese
jacks used ordinary threaded rod). It wouldn't surprise me if car
makers test the jacks they buy from suppliers more thoroughly than
Chinese jack makers test their own products.
I once tested some Chinese hydraulic floor jacks by raising one corner
of my fairly light car overnight. They all sank 0.5" - 2" overnight.
I tried the same test with my father's ancient Sears compact floor
jack, made in Taiwan, and it didn't sink at all.
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 17:56:57 -0500, "Walter Cohen"
The scissors jacks are more trustworthy then a hydraulic jack and
probably more stable then a bottle jack would be. They also start out
LOW and have a large amount of lift. Sometimes when you get a flat
you don't even have room to get a bottle or hydraulic jack under the
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