I have to remove some termite damaged studs and plate. I'd like to
keep the plywood in place (it's only about 3 studs) because there is a
brick veneer on the outside and the sheathing is not accessible. Can I
just install the new studs and try to install some screws from the
inside? The screws will go from the inside of the house out through
the sheathing in order to try to pull the sheathing up close to the
studs? Or maybe use some type of L-bracket against the sides of the
stud to pull the sheetrock in close? Thanks for any advice.
If it is only 3-4 studs I would not be too concerned about it.
If you like use one by 1 x 1 wall angles secured to the back side of the
stud first (on the 3.5" plane) and then use a screw long enough to pull the
board against the stud. Of course you will need to use some type of clipper
to flush cut and nails that remain in the plywood flush to the surface.
You may also find that that termites munched on the plywood once you start
the removal process and there is nothing that will hold a screw.
Anticipating your next question one angle and screw per foot of height would
be about the maximum in time and materials that I would invest in the
Are you referring to a 90 degree metal bracket? Attach one side of the
bracket into the side of the stud and attach the other side to the
I have a brick veneer on the outside so I don't think I need to worry
about cutting the nails that go through the plywood. If I understood
Termites "generally" don't eat plywood if enough other stuff is
available. But they will ocassionaly. Sometimes even eat preasure
treated. The sheathing looks okay. The termite damage is from about
20 years ago when the previous owner dumped wood chips up against the
house. Most of the "muching" was done on the back of the sheetrock.
Bottom 2x4 on the plate is toast.
Yes just your common 90 degree wall angle. After reading Robert's post I
think I would add a bead of construction adhesive along the back side of the
stud. As I said I have never bothered for one or two studs but Robert A
probably has a lot more experience with this type of thing than I do.
I am refering to the nails that secured the plywood to the old studs. They
may or may not pull out when you remove the studs. If they don't you are
going to need to clip them off. There is usually only about a half inch
between the plywood and brick veneer.
What does this being a load bearing wall have to do with anything?
Would you attach the sheathing different if it is a load bearing wall
vs not? I'm not asking about how to shore up the house while the work
is being done.
I am not the poster who posted that, but perhaps he is
questioning whether it is a shear wall rather than load
bearing. If it is a shear wall, then you would want to pay
special attention to making sure that it IS reattached well.
That said, reattaching with adhesive continuously would
satisfy the requirement for a shear wall if the correct
adhesive were used. Especially since the engineers/architects
always overbuild these things due to the impossibility of
predicting the application methods that will be used to
My engineer says that he overengineers everything by about 30%
over and above the built-in overengineering in his tables,
which he says are about 10%.
I think I would rely on structural adhesive, PL400 joist type
adhesive, as the primary repair. Use some utility angle available
at a commercial drywall store attached on each side of the new
stud with drywall screws, apply adhesive, install, draw up tight
to sheathing with drywall screws through the other flange.
(top posted for your convenience)
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
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