I live in Florida, so it is very humid and between 80-94 degrees daily
during the summer.
When I first moved into my home, I would set the AC to 72, then 74. I
noticed it kept running and running never getting cool enough. I
called my home warranty company and they sent out an A/C tech and he
said it was all working fine and the size was appropriate for the
house. He said it was less than 5 years old.
Now, I keep the A/C at 80 during the day and 78 when I sleep. I've
installed a ceiling fan in the bedroom and I seem to be able to sleep
better at this temperature. However, I notice now when it is 80
degrees outside (at night) and I have the temperature set at 80 or 78,
it seems like the A/C is working all the time.
Is there something else I can do to improve the efficiency of my A/C?
I seem to have to change the Air Filters (that claim to be 30-90 days)
in less than 30 days.
I know I need to get rid of my windows and put in new ones, but I've
tried to insulate my doors and windows better for now. but I can't
understand the attempt to lower the temperature 1 to 3 degrees and it
taking so long.
When we first purchased our house we asked a similar question about
the A/C - in our apartment, we usually ran the thermostat up to 80 and
down to 74 when returning home (it was a very old apartment). Doing
the same thing in the new house caused the A/C unit to run for almost
12 hours continuously to cool the space down. The A/C people told us
that with the newer, high-efficiency units, they are designed to run
longer and they are smaller in capacity than the old units. Their
recommendation was to leave the thermostat set at a constant
temperature and not monkey around with it. According to them, this is
more efficient and keeps the energy bills to a minimum since high EER
takes longer to take down temps rather than maintain a constant. Hope
this is helpful.
I don't want to be too cynical, but since this company would have to
do the repair for free, iiuc, they have an incentive to lie. (Of
course if they were going to charge, one could say they had an
incentive to lie in the other direction. And at least once in a while,
something works or doesn't work.)
Jeff said what I was going to say. Did the tech do this? Regardless,
you should do it, so you'll know directly.
Is the fan on On, not Auto, and is it only the indoor fan running, or
the outdoor compressor and fan too? Probably not, but you must
eliminate this possibility, turn the fan to Auto, to go any further.
This sounds to me like nonsense. It may take an unappealingly long
time to cool off your house when you come home, but if you put the
house at 80 when you are not home, your AC won't run as much during
that time, your house won't absorb as much heat during that time
(because it will be closer to the outdoor temp) and you will save
money. If you have a schedule, you can buy a setback thermostat that
will turn your ac to the cooler temp before you get home so it will be
waiting for you. But my AC can bring the house from 87 to 72 in about
4 hours iirc. Your 6 degrees is 40 percent of my 15 degrees.
I'm a bit confused...
I've taken temperatures at the two intakes: I have one that is 1'x2'
and another that is 1'x1'
The intake temperatures were not far off... they registered 71.6 and
72.5. The temperature coming out of the A/C vent is 14 degrees.
Now, where I'm confused is that my wall mount controller reads higher
than the room temps. In my office, the temperature reads about 80
degrees when I have my main PC on (It is a good heat source). I've
gotten to the point of turning it off to keep from burning electricity
AND heating up the house.
I think I need to check the digital temperature gauge that controls
the system, and a few other recommendations here.
The only thermometer I had was a cooking thermometer. I also have a
clock in the office that has a thermometer and that's how I gauge the
I'll review the above and report back more.
Is this like a thermostat?
:-) But I'm really not positive.
I think computers put out more heat than the lights do. I've only had
the AC on for 4 days so far this summer, and I kept turning my pc off
when I wasn't using it.
That's not going to be very accurate, I think. It's accuracy is
centered around the temps of the food it is designed for, like melting
candy or medium roasts.
When you live where it gets cold during the winter, you tend to have a
thermometer outside so you can see if you have to put on warm clothes
before you go out. When you don't, you just open the door to find
You might want to spend the extra money and hire another A/C company to go
out to your home and have them double check your system. Tell them you have
had the system check and they found nothing wrong. This way the service
tech. knows that someone has already checked the most common parts of the
system. Heck it could be loose or disconnected duct work in the attic, your
attic is not vented properly to relief the build up heat or could be a
number of things.
To have them check your system should take a hour to two hours to complete
Now one thing you can do is take the temperature at the return air opening,
the filter grill, and then take the temperature at the closest supply air
opening and see if the temperature difference is around 20 degrees.
In response to prior posts' a 2 or 3-Ton system is relatively the same
BTUH rating & if installed properly "in dry climates'" should cool at
approximately the same rate as the old condensing unit.
In high humidity climates the new higher EER & SEER condensers have a
smaller BTUH compressor as compared to the two over sized coils.
Therefore, they operate somewhat differently in high humidity climates
where there is excessive moist air infiltration.
If there is high humidity content air infiltrating into our home the
evaporator will use most of its capacity to condense that moisture from
the air & very little to lower the sensible or actual temperature that
you read on a thermometer or room TH!
First, go over your home with someone that knows how to seal it against
excessive humidity infiltration into your home.
Next, go over every thing concerning the entire system that could be
reducing the optimal transfer of latent heat (i.e., humidity
condensation) plus total heat absorption & transfer to the condenser
outside. Check the temp split of the condenser's discharge air against
the outdoor temp & post it, that may provide us an indication of the
amount of latent heat of condensation being removed, "or if there is an
outside source Return Air leak."
If the degree of Split is too low or too high, there could be a problem
that needs correcting.
It could be overcharged or have numerous other problems needing attention.
Check out other of my pages so the tech will recognize that you have
some knowledge of the system.
Man, it should pull the temp down well below 78 at night & cycle off;
IMO there are things with the home &/or the system that may need
The indoor temp split varies with the % of Relative Humidity; buy a
humidity gauge & tell us the readings.
WISDOM PRINCIPLE DIRECTED EMPOWERMENT COMMUNICATIONS -
THE REAL POLITICAL ISSUES and WISDOM BASED PEOPLE EMPOWERMENT
Also -- check your ductwork to see if there are air leaks into your attic or
crawl space. These leaks will decrease the amount of cold air you get into
your living area. It's not uncommon, especially with an older system, for
leaks to have developed that will divert a significant amount of cold air.
A home airconditioner should drop the air temperature about 20 degrees.
Hold a thermometer in front of an air inlet and air outlet and check the
temperature drop. If the temperature drop is significantly different then
something is wrong. In a place like Florida with high humidity be carefully
of dropping the temperature of your house below the outside dew point which
often can be in the 70's. This can cause condensation in your walls which
will encourage mold growth.
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