I have removed carpet from hardwood floor. I probably need to sand the
floor first before painting.
What kind of sand paper do I need? and after sanding what kind of
filler do I have to use for
the first paint. I am new in this, like to do it by myself.
Would anyone please guide me step by step.
Unless the floor is real bad, I would scrape it (use a big sander and
an edger, somewhat coarse grade if necessary and then a finer grade)
and finish it in varnish or polyurethane.
If you insist on painting it, ugh, it would depend on what the suface
looks like now.
I did polyurethane a floor once and I followed the directions and
consider them a mistake. It said after the first coat, if I did it in
less than 24 or 12 or something hours, I could, I actually should wire
brush the first coat (using a floor buffer and a "steel wool" pad
iirc. I think I had the buffer already for some reason>) and then put
on the second coat of polyurethane. The idea was to rough up, I
think, the first coat so the sececond coat would stick.
Unfortuanately, the first coat was not dry and little pieces of steel
wool got imbedded in it. I don't know if I evewn noticed before I put
on the second coat, but even if I had, I don't know any way to have
rectified it in the time I allocated.
That web site posted by propman has some good info but a lot of bad info..
Go to home depot and rent their flat vibrating floor sander, just cannot
make mistakes with it. Then use the sawdust from sanding mixed with
carpenters glue for filler.
Do counter sink the exposed nails and fill the holes. Then stain if desired
and top off with water based poly usually four coats will give it a great
look and long lasting finish. The water based poly dries in an hour and has
If you're going to go through all the trouble of sanding the
thing down, (A) you shouldn't need filler, and
(B) Why then are you painting, instead of using
stain/varnish/shellac/polyurethane on a hardwood floor?
If you are going to paint, then
(A) Use tinted primer, and
(B) Do *NOT* believe the printer cure-time on the
can. It will dry to the point where you
can walk on it, yes, but it won't cure enough
to stand up to hard use for about a month.
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