Two (maybe 2.5?) inch ABS vents kitchen sink in 2x4 exterior wall.
Insulate with fiberglass? Or, sprayed foam? Note not much room
*around* pipe given dimensions of wall.
My thinking is sprayed foam might conduct more sound than the
Dynamat seems like overkill. I could likewise fill that
void with *sand*... :>
Just the "tinkle" of water draining through it. Nothing to
lose sleep over but I've got that part of the wall open so
now is a great time to make any "adjustments".
Presently nothing in it (the cavity is only a couple of inches
wider than the stand pipe). The first inclination was just
to use "great stuff" and turn it into a solid block surrounding
But, that might just CONDUCT the sounds, better. And, a lot harder
to undo! :-/
Could also wrap with a thin layer of fiberglass then rubberized
membrane, then more fiberglass (changing the density at each layer
to absorb different frequencies)
Don't use great stuff. You could try some soft foam. Either soft gummy hvac
foam, not the polypropolyne type, or less effective open cell foam
stuffing. You could also wrap it with rubber mat flooring sold by the foot.
I'll keep that in mind -- *if* I break something an need to
replumb the stack. NOT something I want to do! Trying
to get all this stuff done BEFORE it gets much hotter
(current mid 80's are only "uncomfortable"; 90's will start
to be annoying!)
If the rubber matting would work, I could wrap it in FortiFlash
(about 1/8" thick -- multiple layers?). Keep in mind, there's
not much space around the pipe owing to the thickness (THINness?)
of the wall. And, I'm reasonably sure I don't want it to rub against
the interior as it would inevitably make noises as the house "moves".
I can't replace the stack (well, I *could* replace just the vent
portion). And, am really hesitant to tinker with the drain "T"
as it's into the slab from there. I.e., break anything and you're
quickly facing the problem of the carpenter trimming chair legs:
"Hmmm... STILL too short!"
So, anything that breaks the path of the "pressure wave"?
I'm reluctant to cast the entire thing in (solid) foam as any
work that would need to be done -- once I get the tongue-groove
planks in place -- would require a HUGE amount of effort
(i.e., remove ~10-12 planks *OR* remove countertop and three
cabinets) just to access that portion of the wall, vent, drain,
[Hence the reason for undertaking these sorts of things
BEFORE I close up the wall!]
How would "solid" foam compare to, e.g., densely packed fiberglass?
Or, LOOSELY packed fiberglass (I'd imagine dense would be better)?
On 3/2/2016 8:39 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Google turned up lots of hits (esp YouTube) for this sort of
thing. But, mostly "kids" trying to insulate the sound systems
in their ghetto cruisers.
Different sounds (frequency ranges) require different sorts of
treatment (above my pay grade). I recall having to help a friend
design a "muffler" for the ventilation system on a piece of
military test equipment. It was very frustrating trying to figure
out what you needed to change to achieve a desired result (in his
case, without impeding air flow!)
My main concern is not wanting to make *more* work at some
future date. Esp if (as I get older and less willing/capable
of taking on these chores) someone ELSE is called upon to
address future issues! We've made lots of little
customizations, here (and some BIG ones!) that would surprise
(and, in some cases, CONFOUND!) many tradesmen.
Roxul may be an option. But, I don't know where the OP could buy just the
small amount of it that he would need for this one application.
I also don't know offhand where someone could buy small amounts of foam
rubber or something similar. But, something like that may be the easiest,
cheapest, and quickest easily-removed sound proofing solution for this
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