Accuracy of an analog meter increases toward midscale. The greatest
inaccuracy is at full scale (either way - 0 or 500). I would think a
260 would give very accurate readings measuring 240VAC and 268VAC on the
500VAC scale, approaching the accuracy of a DVM.
I used a Triplett 310 for decades before moving to Fluke DVMs. The
early DVMs were a bear to use on AC - most measured in peak to peak
voltages and you had to do your own calculations for RMS. Now I don't
think I could live without my Fluke 77.
Just my 2/100$.
Even if the analog meter was exactly accurate, you would loose a percent
or so in readability due to paralax between the needle and the scale
unless the scale has a mirror (as some do).
The Fluke 77 actually doesn't measure true RMS. Most meters (analog
or digital) do not. They just measure the P-P voltage and scale the reading
as if it were a sin wave.
I have used a number of analog meters over the decades. I now have
a Fluke 75 and Fluke 87 III (true RMS) and would never want to go
back to analog meters. If you are measuring a true sin wave, true RMS
meters tend to be slightly less accurate.
I think all good analog meters (all Simpson's anyway) have mirrored scales,
so parallax really is not an issue. I always do mid-scale readings on the
Using an analog meter probably takes a little more skill and time to be as
accurate, though. It is pretty hard to misread a DMM. If I were making my
living with a meter in my hand and time was money, I would use a DMM.
As someone who occasionally needs to use a meter, and someone who
appreciates Starrett mics, S-K wrenches, Klein hand tools, etc., I truly
appreciate a quality, hand crafted tool. There is just something special
about the experience of using a quality analog VOM compared to reading a
digital display. Sort of like watching a movie or reading the book. The book
takes more time, but it is far more engaging. :)
Won't argue, though, DMM's are cheaper and faster...but sometimes that
really does not matter.
I've seen several posts in this thread where the possibility of reducing the
"dropout" voltage of the inverter is mentioned.
But... what about reducing the amount of *time* the inverter is offline? Surely
it isn't necessary for the unit to decouple
for 5-10 minutes just due to a 250 mS droop from a motor starting?
I really think you need to contact the dealer or manufacturer of the inverter.
I can't imagine they've never seen this
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