A repair product that really adheres to rubber

A repair product that really adheres to rubber??

I've used black GE silicone to cover rubber things, but now that I have an old motorcycle from 1969, there are a lot of rubber parts which need something better. For example there is a rubber bumper** underneath the gas tank which has a lot of short "cuts" in it (they weren't cut by anyone though). All the cuts run parallel so that if you pull a bit, all the cuts open up.

I need something that will really stick to the rubber, so that when there is some stress on it, the patch will resist the stretch. I don't think the silicone really adheres.

But it probably should be flexible too. Maybe. Otherwise the orginal rubber will (will it?) stretch and come away from the glue, and otherwise, when the original rubber is pushed on, it won't bend where the glue is, will have to bend more right next to that, and will start tearing there. I can't get most of these parts. Others are both left and right air intake between the air cleaner and something else. And I'm sure I'll find more. And there are other projects where I've wanted something like this.

Reply to
mm
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Eastman make a marine adhesive/chalk (5200 or something like that) that is wonderful. It will stick to anything, bend, whatever.

Reply to
Toller

Look for a caulk, used in the construction of train box cars. It will stick to a "ball of lard". Three years ago, it was expensive bucks for a tube.

Get this on the clothes and the caulk, will out last them.............

Oren

Reply to
Oren

yup - I love adhesives - especially the GE silcone II ....

But when it absolutely, positively has to stay put - you need the 3M 5200. I like the black. I found that the white YELLOWS. Downside is the 7 day cure time. But, it STICKS.

Do a Google for

5200 3M polyurethane -

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A repair product that really adheres to rubber??

Reply to
philkryder

Those aren't cuts - those are places where the rubber has split because it's breaking down. If you fill those voids, the rubber adjacent will split. You should replace the rubber, not try to fix it.

If you insist, 3M5200 Fast Cure only takes 2 days instead of 7.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Daly

According to mm :

I imagine the GE 5200 stuff works.

This may be a reasonable alternative: it's called "weatherstrip adhesive", and used for gluing rubber and other types of weatherstripping to itself, metal or glass. An automotive supplier will have it.

I believe it's pretty flexible.

But if the rubber is perishing, that will only delay the inevitable slightly.

Reply to
Chris Lewis

Superglue (cyanoacrilate, Sp?) will bond rubber to metal and many other materials very well.

SJF

Reply to
SJF

What species of "rubber"? There are dozens, and they differ in what will glue them.

The suggestion of 3M 5200 is mistaken for this application, although it is amazing stuff.

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

Like I say, I'm sure I can't get these parts anymore. The bike was made in 1969.

I've found listings for carb kits and ignition kits and 10 or 15 other parts, but since these aren't "replacement parts", no one ever started making them.

I'd love to be able to make molds and my own rubber parts, but it would take a lot of time plus I don't know how. Why can't these airplane bombers put their efforts into a chemical that will turn into rubber? That would be useful.

Thanks, 7 days would be a long time

Thanks to all those who replied. Every answer seemed pretty good. I no idea there was something as good as any of them sounded.

Yes, I know the end may be near for all these parts, but maybe not. The bumper under the gas tank is like a dumbbell with two big round pieces at the ends, and they look fine. There is a four inch strap in the middle that is only damaged for about an inch of it. I'll coat the whole thing.

The air cleaner things both have damage in the same place, as if that is under particular stress and maybe the rest of it isn't under that kind of stress.

Or maybe it doesn't matter. I'd be surprised if I drove this bike for more than 2000 miles total. Unless I get a job the right distance from home or less, I have few places to go with this thing. And I'm too busy at home doing home.repair. But I'm still very glad to have my first motorcycle.

Reply to
mm

I don't know. Only that it's black, made in 1969 and it's 1/8" thick or almost, at its thinnnest part.

Definitely there is more than one kind because there is a rubber strap with metal hooks at each end that goes over the battery, and it seems in perfect condition and still stretches, but not easily, so it stays firmly over the battery as intended. I was very careful getting it off, but it seems to be in fine condition. None of the other rubber was intended to pull back, only to push back.

It won't stick, or what?

Reply to
mm

I have used lots of polyurethane (e.g., 3M 5200), and it does stick viciously to many things, but I suspect most species of rubber are not among them.

3M does not list rubber among the applications:

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Reply to
Richard J Kinch

I'm looking.

Thanks to you and toller and chris and SJF and Michael and Richard and Phil.

Reply to
mm

Duro brand "Black Plastic Rubber". At least I think that's what it's called. (Not black silicone.) I've used it to glue the souls back on tennis shoes, etc. If it'll stick to a soul, that's pretty good.

Best regards, Bob

Reply to
zxcvbob

zxcvbob wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net:

If it sticks to your -soul-,then perhaps you will not be going to Heaven. I'd much rather use it on my soles.

(mild humor attempt,nothing more)

Reply to
Jim Yanik

Here is a bit more detail of my success with the 3m 5200. You may find something better. If so, please let us know what it is.

I had a pair of old shoes - hiking shoes about 15 years old.

They have "rubber" vibram soles and rubber "bumpers" all around.

I masked off areas of the leather, and created a new rubber bumper over the old one.

I also re-laminated the ruber soles where the original glue had failed....

All worked very well.

As I said, I like the GE silicone II. But, the 5200 has immense cohesive and adhesive strenghth.

Just be sure to:

1) mask off anything that you don't want "stuck" 2) If you need more thickness, use a couple of coats about 1/16 inch thick - about 3 hours apart. 3) sand and moisen the surfaces before application. 4) be sure that you close the tube and keep it dry for future use.

mm wrote:

Reply to
philkryder

Definitely. I'll look for that too.

Thanks, and again, thanks to all.

Reply to
mm

I intentionally misspelled it for comedic effect. (obviously it almost worked, but not quite)

Best regards, ;-) Bob

Reply to
zxcvbob

I would think a "vulcanizing glue" the kind used for inner tube patches would be a good choice.

Mark

Reply to
Mark

Which is nothing but rubber cement.

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

going for the 3M black super Weatherstrip adhesive for my flip flops (sealing the repair hole). I'll keep ya'll posted. Keep your soul clean Bob.

Reply to
Peggy Sands

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