Hope someone can shed some lights on the following:
1. I ran a #14 for under-cabinet lights/strips. The lights will be
switched on/off from a wall switch. Do I need a metal J-box and BX
wires from the wall to the lights? The #14 stub is now just sticking
out of a small round hole in the drywall. Stub is currently capped.
2. Plan to upgrade the service panel to 200A. Can I run a few extra
runs from the attic (grounded and capped in metal J-box with strain
relief) to the panel without having the wires actually connected to
the breakers? These stubs will be capped and taped.
On Apr 3, 10:45 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
For what it's worth I struggled with connecting under the cabinet
lights to a switch. Mostly because of the connection. What I ended
up doing was mounting outlets in boxes sideways just above the
cabinets. My cabinets have crown molding along the top so you can't
see the outlets. I used low voltage halogen lights and the
transformers are sitting on top of the cabinets. I run the low
voltage cords down the space between the cabinets.
I too struggled with the best way to handle powering our undercabinet
lights from a light switch. I didn't know ahead of time if we would use low
voltage lighting, and actually chose line voltage fluorescent lights. I
ended up installing outlets in the base cabinets and connected those to a
The bottom of our wall cabinets have a 1-1/2" recess that the lights are
mounted in. I drilled a hole in the back of the cabinet, then fished a
length of 14/2 romex from the upper cabinet to another hole in the base
cabinet near the outlet. Then I installed custom plugs on each end so it
could plug into the outlet at the bottom and into the light at the top. The
outlets are behind drawers so they are easy to access, but don't need to
worry about pans bumping them or anything.
To be honest, I kind of like your outlet above the cabinet idea, especially
for low voltage lights. We will be remodeling my in-laws kitchen this
summer, and I may use that idea.
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