On Thu, 03 Aug 2006 15:52:22 -0500, Richard J Kinch
All depends on where "here" is. they run local distribution to the
poles behind your house in various areas at 2.4KV (rare anymore)
4.8KV, 9.6KV, 13KV, 15KV, 34.5KV...
And long distance can be all the way up to the 2-wire 1000KV DC
Pacific Intertie - one line at +500KV DC, the other at -500KV DC to
ground. Normally, DC isn't good for long distances, but boosted that
high it works. And better yet, the transmission systems at either end
don't have to be at the exact same frequency, because the converter
stations sync up with the local AC frequency lock.
But back to the original subject - Igor, you can't get hurt with the
24V from the furnace to the contactor - there's a 40VA to 60VA
transformer inside the furnace, and when the current goes up past what
the transformer can supply the voltage drops off. (Till the fuse in
the transformer pops, then you get nothing.)
There's a reason they call it "Class 2 Current Limited" wiring, and
you don't need to worry about silly things like conduit and boxes.
Now the 240 VAC from the breaker, THAT can hurt ya.
--<< Bruce >>--
It is quite obviously not very relevant, but there is very solid 24
VAC as input to the contactor's coil.
One pair of contacts (across the contactor) measures 0 ohm. Another
pair, strangely, measures infinity, which is quite strange as the
contactor ought to be closed for a power fault like this to occur
(barring some very strange troubles). I left the outside unit due to
the rain that resumed, will come back there soon.
I am not used to seeing such strange contactors, all contactors that I
dealt with, to date, were three pole contactors for 3 phase motors.
Also, can someone explain me why the capacitor has three sets of
terminals. What is the purpose of the third terminal. Thanks.
On Thu, 03 Aug 2006 02:37:39 GMT, Ignoramus2645
I think that I was wrong. The contactor is OK. I must have mismeasured
something. It has zero ohms across bost pairs of contacts.
I am going to post a little update, it is a little more apparent to
me -- see my separate post.
This is symptomatic of a bad compressor. Try testing the motor leads for a
dead short (to each other and ground). There are start and run leads. You
may need a HVAC guy to replace your compressor and recharge the system.
Um, no, that could not be the case. If I disconnect the cap's fat blue
lead and let the cap hang in the air, the breaker does not blow, the
blower runs, and the compressor hums (I am sure that it does not run).
It is very likely the cap.
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