On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 13:52:32 -0700 (PDT), Shy Picker
Maybe this the best time to use synthetic, when the engine is new and
doesn't dribble over the highway, or burn oil (although if it's going
to burn oil, SAE 0 will burn the most.)
And synthetic lasts longer, I forget how long, althought does one want
to do that with a new engine?
Well, if you have any engine trouble that might be covered by the
warranty, they might just check to see what viscosity you actually used.
If you didn't follow their requirements, there goes your warranty. Try
getting a flat fixed with the new TPMS systems.
The SAE rating isn't an actual viscosity; ergo, 0W-30 oil doesn't have
zero viscosity at the colder test temperature (0C iirc, 100C (~210F))
for the higher.
There's a chart of a range of performance conditions by which the
shorthand rating is determined for any given oil. Roughly, at least
originally, the lower rating was roughly the "pour point" in C; that has
become more refined and includes things like max cranking power. The
actual viscosity part of the test is still performed at 100C but is a
test for the minimum time (that is, the oil can't run at a lower rate
than that specified as the grade standard) as opposed to a min/max time
range for the high temp rating.
Use of pour point depressant additives can make any oil base perform to
the tests; what is chosen to be used is a combination of design
parameters as well as cost. Adding more additives raises cost as well
as can shorten life as additives wear out during use.
The SAE rating is _NOT_ the viscosity itself; it's simply a rating
system related to viscosity at two reference temperatures (0 and 100 C)
Initially, the lower number roughly correlated w/ the "pour point" of
the oil in C; now it's more sophisticated set of tests; see other
posting for a (very) brief summary or google it for details.
Yep, that's what the dealers would like you to do. If you can find a
good aftermarket filter for Porsches there is no reason you can't find
one for a Toyota too. After all, I doubt Toyota is making the filter
I swear this is true. I knew a guy who had bought a new kawasaki moped
for his wife (I think in the 1980's). When ever he needed 2 stroke oil
he would only buy it at the Kawasaki dealer. He did this for years.
Then one day he went to the dealer for something else (I forget what?)
and he wasn't treated like a king. He told whoever he was talking to
that he is a loyal customer and always buys the 2 stroke oil there!!!!
They still couldn't help him with whatever his problem was and he
badmouthed them ever since. And he actually still tells people that he
always bought the 2 cycle oil at the dealer because of course Kawasaki
oil would be the best choice for a Kawasaki motor!
When it came time to buy a computer for his daughter he decided that
since IBM was so big in computers from the early days, that the best
possible PC would be an IBM, and price didn't matter if he was buying
the best. So he paid out the ass for an IBM and every possible
accessory that had the IBM name on it.
Went to the Toyota dealer where we purchased our 2009 Corolla for the 5,000 mile
"Class A" service. Our owner's manual also specifies 0W20 oil. The itemized
work list shows that they used 5W20. We live in the Washington, D.C. metro
area. I assume that the dealer used factory authorized oil.
Don't assume that the dealer automatically uses the recommended oil.
I had an oil change on my 4Runner at the dealer. The manual recommends
5W30, they used 10W30 because it's what they have in their bulk oil
tank. I had them change it to 5W30 which they had only in bottles.
By now they probably switched their bulk oil to 5W30.
My relative has an auto repair shop in San Francisco. When 5W20 first
came out it was for Hondas, and he could not buy it from his oil
supplier, only from Honda. The Honda parts person told him that the
Honda dealer just used 5W30 on the vehicles that specified 5W20 because
the 5W20 was much more expensive. But an independent shop needs to be
more careful than the dealer for liability reasons, and not use the
wrong oil. Now he has 5W30 in his bulk tank, and uses bottled 5W20 which
is available from many oil jobbers.
Thing is, 5W30 is safe to use in any engine that specifies 5W20.
The company cannot recommend it because they MUST recommend the oil
used to qualify the car for CAFE under American law.
The only difference between using 5W20 and 5w30 is about 2/10 mpg fuel
economy (at best)
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