After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make economic sense to do so?
It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000 new. We also have vacuum attachments for it.
Thanks, Teffy
While mowing, my riding mower died. It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that
> is 15 years old.
>
> When the ignition key is turned from off to run, I hear one soft
> click. The lights work in this state. If I turn the key from run to
> start, I hear one loud click and nothing else.
>
> The wiring diagram is shown here:
>
formatting link
> The voltage (no load) across battery terminals measures 12 v.
>
> When the key is in the start position, I measure these voltages:
> 8.0 v across brown wire from ignition switch to solenoid S10 terminal.
> 7.2 v from solenoid terminals S10 to S2 (terminals with small gauge > wires).
> 0.5 v from S2 to battery negative terminal.
>
> As far as I can tell, the parts with safety switches are all in proper
> position: Power Take-Off is dis-engaged, accelerator pedal is in
> neutral, my butt is in the seat.
>
> The connection from negative battery post to mower frame looks clean
> and tight, and voltage from terminal to frame bolt is zero volts. >
> What do you think is wrong with the mower?
>
> Thanks,
> Teffy